Gorgeous mark!!
So how many coats of what? And sanding between coats - I always mess that up it seems. You use sand paper (what grit) and lots of tack cloths??
In the picture it just has BullsEye SealCoat on it (unwaxed shellac). That was to protect it while I worked on it over almost 2 months. It sands very easily and I could remove it completely since I was working with 1/4 and 3/8" veneers in case I changed my mind. I'm loving my new bandsaw with woodslicer blade. It resaws great!
I have been using Festool's Granat 220 and 400 grit papers with my hand sanding blocks. I love these sanding blocks have them in two colors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R501B4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also have some 800 grit pads for final finish.
Before that I use a Festool ETS 150/3 to get it to a good surface.
But before that I used a #6 hand plane since my straight blade planner would tear this wood up! I'm really wanting a helical blade planer now and wish I had gotten the Dewalt 635 which has a Shelix helical blade available for it.
How I'm finishing it now is with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal Satin which is an oil based poly. Arm-R-Seal has a nice look on hard woods much better than Minwax.
Both the SealCoat and the Arm-R-Seal have a similar effect making the wood look a bit more gold. A water based Poly would stay clear.
I experimented quite a bit with Waterlox dies and Varathane stains. The results were very uniform, but my wife liked it natural with the live edge of the birds eye maple showing detail.
So I finished it
Hand plane
Random orbital sander 220Grit
SealCoat
hand sand 220 Grit
Arm-R-Seal
hand sand 400 grit
2 x Arm-R-Seal
For the table top, I'm going to sand it again with 400 grit paper put a final coat of SealCoat on and then the Bar Top Epoxy.
SealCoat is great stuff! It is alcohol based so it is compatible with oil or water based finishes.
Epoxy is fun stuff. You have to mix it really well.
Pour from the center in circles out to the edges and then fill in the gaps.
Wait 5 minutes then work with a heat gun over the entire surface
Wait 10 minutes and hit it with a propane torch to break any bubbles.
Let it sit for a few days to cure.
I'm going to do this in a basement room. I'm going to block off the vents so there is no air flow and any dust settles and keep the room closed off.
This is the tray. White oak on the ends, curly maple on the bottom and bird's eye maple for the front and back with the live edge against the curly maple. There is 1/4" baltic birch plywood under the birds eye and 1/2" baltic birch on the bottom. I encapsulated it with 1/8" veneers and capped the top. I'm hoping with the plywood core and all the glue involved that I won't have any issues with wood movement. Fingers crossed!
Prepared for the Epoxy...
The room's vents are shut and it is closed off. I'll bring the table top down tonight and wipe it off in the morning before I begin.
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