Looks like they are listed as being in Kansas. Thats where the phone number is and there is a building too. Do they just build them in Canada?
So it's one of those "clear as mud" situations regarding connecting multiple amps to one subwoofer.Here's the latest (you will likely need to go to the beginning of this thread to understand the following)... I've now heard back from Martin Logan, Parasound, and REL. Some were long email threads, so I will just post the general comments. Comments inside the 'quotes' are being directly quoted (I sure hope I am not breaking some rules doing this, but I've got the original messages and certainly not trying to put anyone in a tough spot)...
So, what I am hearing from this is that neither ML, Parasound, or JL recommends using high level connections to subs, while REL so believes in using high level connections, they even include the high level cable. I don't know if REL is really on to something here, or not...
I found the info I was looking for about the LFE channel at the Soundoctor site (not 100% sure, but I think it was chops that originally posted this). I may be wrong but if LFE is a dedicated channel primarily for film soundtracks, then my 'guess' (and that's all it is) is that an LFE channel likely doesn't exist with most two channel music sources. I'm way out of my league on this and we really need to hear from the gurus out here.
ttocs, I'm curious about this 'miniDSP' approach. I'm not a very technical guy, so where would I get more info on this? As for you using a wireless connection to your subs, I am also interested in that. My 'future' stereo pair of subs (and potentially, center sub), are not an issue, but adding rear channel subs will be a challenge. While certainly not impossible using good old copper, it would definitely be easier using wireless.Let me toss into the ring another wrinkle. I've been using a miniDSP and have 3 subs connected to the Center Sub output from my processor. Even though I'm a huge fan of speaker level connected subs for music (full disclosure: I'm not using this method currently), the miniDSP offers some really nifty benefits which allow for tailoring each sub in ways that allow a novice like me to have success. It also has multiple profiles which can be selected at will for different purposes. One profile I'm planning to work on is for two channel usage where the subs will be for only sub-bass, like under 20 or 30Hz for just a little bit of a nudge.
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One last thing, I'm using wireless connection between the subs and the miniDSP. It's been working very well. So each subwoofer and its receiver are plugged into a common power source, but no other wires needed.
I'm a fan of Rel. I'm also intrigued with Rythmik Audio Subwoofers who make what looks like very reasonably priced subs and I've read owner reviews that rave about how they stand behind their products.ttocs, I'm curious about this 'miniDSP' approach. I'm not a very technical guy, so where would I get more info on this? As for you using a wireless connection to your subs, I am also interested in that. My 'future' stereo pair of subs (and potentially, center sub), are not an issue, but adding rear channel subs will be a challenge. While certainly not impossible using good old copper, it would definitely be easier using wireless.
Right now I am definitely leaning toward REL. Watching their videos about the benefits of using high level connections does have me really believing. That said, their online support has been better than probably anyone I have ever dealt with. Sure, maybe they know they can sell some subs by responding to me but they have answered every question, in a timely fashion, and on top of that have answered questions that I had not even thought to ask...
ttocs, I'm curious about this 'miniDSP' approach. I'm not a very technical guy, so where would I get more info on this? As for you using a wireless connection to your subs, I am also interested in that. My 'future' stereo pair of subs (and potentially, center sub), are not an issue, but adding rear channel subs will be a challenge. While certainly not impossible using good old copper, it would definitely be easier using wireless.
Right now I am definitely leaning toward REL. Watching their videos about the benefits of using high level connections does have me really believing. That said, their online support has been better than probably anyone I have ever dealt with. Sure, maybe they know they can sell some subs by responding to me but they have answered every question, in a timely fashion, and on top of that have answered questions that I had not even thought to ask...
I bought a CR-1 a few months ago and am still "playing" with it, i.e. I've taken no measurements, only set by ear. I also have several options for subwoofer amps that I haven't decided upon yet. I'm using it to send the high-pass signal into ML Odysseys and that does allow me to avoid the nasty peak they have at 50 Hz. There's no detectable decrease in the overall sound quality I'm hearing from the Odysseys, which was my main concern about getting the CR-1. I emailed JL Audio several times before I purchased the CR-1 with somewhat technical questions and they were very responsive. I should have time in December and January to finalize the setup and might have more to add then.Woof! That Soundoctor site is quite interesting -- and also makes my head hurt. Appears to be lots of info I need to absorb, so I will be returning and re-reading much what is offered.
Anyone ever tried or use the JL CR-1?
I bought a CR-1 a few months ago and am still "playing" with it, i.e. I've taken no measurements, only set by ear. I also have several options for subwoofer amps that I haven't decided upon yet. I'm using it to send the high-pass signal into ML Odysseys and that does allow me to avoid the nasty peak they have at 50 Hz. There's no detectable decrease in the overall sound quality I'm hearing from the Odysseys, which was my main concern about getting the CR-1. I emailed JL Audio several times before I purchased the CR-1 with somewhat technical questions and they were very responsive. I should have time in December and January to finalize the setup and might have more to add then.
By using high-level signals it's just dropped down to the RCA level inside the sub. I would get whatever sub you like and not get wrapped up about high-level signal connections. Remember most if not all setups are room dependant. Your room and sub placement will be far more important than a supposed hook up tweak that 95% of the industry does not recommend. Just think about the bigger picture. Sometimes we get down into the weeds and find a rabbit trail........
Not only did my old Polk subs sound much better with a high level signal being fed to them, so do my JL subs.
And worth noting that REL have specifically recommended high level connection for years.
ttocs,I'm a fan of Rel. I'm also intrigued with Rythmik Audio Subwoofers who make what looks like very reasonably priced subs and I've read owner reviews that rave about how they stand behind their products.
miniDSP is a product range aimed more at tinkerers. It's a bit clumsy at times with their outdated method of updating the settings on the miniDSP box. That said, it's a very versatile piece of kit. It took me a while to get comfortable with it, and I'm only scratching the surface with its capabilities.
The breakthrough for me was when I found out that connecting my computer (MacBook Pro) to my processor via HDMI made things A LOT simpler to setup. There's not a lot of hand-holding going on, but there are a lot of videos to watch showing mostly the same stuff over and over. The problem with most of the videos is that they "gloss over" some very pertinent setup info that left me in the dark, so I banged my head against the rocks until I discovered what was missing. miniDSP.com has a lot of good info - even though some pertinent info is not fully explained. You toob has gobs of videos, but again, it requires a lot of time to wade through the repeats to get the info that might be missing for the setup and the exact "how to".
The miniDSP I have has 2 inputs and 4 outputs. They can be matrixed to be any combination, so each output can be toggled On/Off for either or both of the inputs. There's lots of control possibilities including Level, Crossover, PEQ, Delay, etc. So if you want to use it for stereo input/output, or how I use it as 1-input/3-output. Or you can get other versions with more inputs and outputs. They even have a Dirac model.
Since you have an Anthem processor, you might want to find out if their room correction can handle multiple subwoofers. If it can, then I'd stick with Anthem. If not, then it'll come down to how much you are willing to learn a new black box and other software - REW, which is what I use to run measurements for setting up the miniDSP and the subs.
I'm very willing to help as best I can. No problem.
I bought VSUB-1 transmitters/receivers for 3 subwoofers from Emotiva. It's about $130 per pair and is only for RCA connection. I made some really short RCA cables for these to keep things neat. The units are supposed to be capable of wireless connection up to 50' line-of-sight, but that's optimistic. The longest distance for mine is about 22' with furniture in the way and it works fine. As best as I can measure, the extra delay using these is about 1ms or so, not much. Setup is really simple. Plug in, press a button on the transmitter and receiver, they pair, end of story. You can pair multiple receivers to one transmitter, or one to one. So I have a cable connecting the Center Sub output of the processor to the miniDSP, then 3 outputs of the miniDSP to the 3 transmitters, so each sub is on its own channel on the miniDSP.
Yeah, I get 'ya with the computer interface stuff. With my 3 subwoofer compliment, after having located the ultimate locations in my room for subwoofers to reside, I'm forced to use the miniDSP or something else like it to aid in grouping the subs to work as one. The goal with this experiment was to find the most extended bass with the flattest response possible using only delay and levels - before applying any room correction - from the subs I have, which succeeded.ttocs,
Wow! Thx for all the detailed info, and the offer to help. I did go up to the miniDSP site and hunt around (but did not check out any of the YouTube stuff). Unfortunately, it didn't take long for me to realize that this just isn't for me. I think it was when I read 'one can configure the on board Audio processing filters real time from a PC or Mac environment' I knew that was more than I wanted to sign up for! I've got to admit, I'm not quite sure how I would even work this into my system. That said, I thought some of the room correction stuff looked interesting, so I'm likely to head back and give their site a more thorough read.
Regarding the AVM 60's room correction software being able to handle multiple subs, I haven't looked into that yet. While I know they have two sub outputs, I don't know if that is two outputs, or... two independently controlled outputs. My current plan remains to bring two subs in and integrate them as a stereo pair, most likely connected off my mono blocks using a high level connection. So other than my AVM 60 feeding them thru the LFE output, I 'think' it is largely out of the picture in my planned config. Of course I haven't got things in and started playing around yet either, so once again I may find out that I just didn't know, what I didn't know!
Sorry to hear you got burned by Sumiko. I guess companies come, and companies go, but I also feel like I got abandoned by OPPO Digital when they decided to bail out. The good news with them is at least they are keeping their support up for a couple of years (although, I haven't actually tried to reach them since all my stuff is still working just fine).If wishing to use the speaker level method: Get a couple Rel subwoofers. Better yet, get six! Two stacks of three.
I still have the desire to add speaker level sub bass, and I know I'll need new subs to accomplish this. It's really the only thing on my wishlist, well, that and trying to get all the wires to look nice and neat.
I don't have that kind of budget either! Especially since my salary got cut by more than half a few months ago (hopefully the new project will start in a few months, it's been on hold).Thanks for the vote of confidence on REL. I am 'strongly' (actually, very strongly) leaning toward going with them. As far as getting a 'six pack'... hmmm, let's see... may as well go with their top of the line No, 25... and that would work out to... $45,000 and 1000 pounds of subs coming into the house!!! While I love the look of their 'stacks' and I buy into their logic behind them, I just don't have the budget, or the room. Besides, I've been spending a bunch on upgrading various things, and the little women does need a new car. Soooooo..... Subs? Car? Subs? Car?... I don't think that I can even convince myself on this one...
Keep us in the loop! I'm interested in rythmik too. I think when my depth I finally dies, I will buy a pair of their F18.I don't have that kind of budget either! Especially since my salary got cut by more than half a few months ago (hopefully the new project will start in a few months, it's been on hold).
I emailed Rythmik Audio and provided a detailed explanation of what I'd like to accomplish. Should be interesting to hear what they recommend.
I am inquiring about using a pair of triple-stacked subs just for speaker level connection with the Expressions, no LFE. They would be setup like Rel recommends, right next to and outside of the Left/Right speakers. If they recommend one of the models I "hope" they recommend, then I would order a couple to start with and see how well they work before getting more.
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