Martin Logan Aerius i rewire question

winno · Sep 11, 2013

Quick question for you guys;
Can you think of any reason why the two blue Kimber wires in this pic were not run as a single wire?
I mean, they meet at the front stator panel in the end anyway.

One is fed off one part of the cross over - yellow wire
One is fed off the power supply board - blue wire

I'm thinking that I can just run the yellow wire to the blue wire next to the transformer and then run a single, heavier gauge cable (Kimber 4TC) up to the stator yeah?

Cheers for the help guys - much appreciated.

Tosh · Sep 21, 2013

"If it ain't broke don't fix it."

Can you post the Aerius i schematic from ML? I wouldn't like to make electrical circuit assumptions about the wiring to and from the audio step-up transformer....

#ZERO · Sep 22, 2013

Tosh said:
"If it ain't broke don't fix it."

X2

That's high voltage wire with a 3000V+ rating to the ESL panels and your standard speaker cable wire insulation is not going to be sufficient. If you're planning to bypass the screw terminal junctions; I would just splice the existing wire colors together or search for some EDPM, Teflon, or Silicone insulated wire with a 5kV plus voltage rating if you want to lengthen the cables in that location. The extra blue wire attached to the front stator panel is most likely a notch filter to keep the frequency flat.

kach22i · Sep 24, 2013

Tosh said:
"If it ain't broke don't fix it."

Amen to that, and then some.

winno · Sep 27, 2013

Cheers guys.
Will run separate cables from each point 'just in case'.
One thing I have learnt with this project so far is that as good as the Aerius is in standard form, the standard form is absolutely full of compromises.

The cable being replaced is a 4 core version of Kimber PBJ interconnect. I'll be replacing it and the two sets of connector blocks with a continuous run of Kimber 4TC all the way to the panel. Both lots of cables are teflon coated of course.

winno · Sep 28, 2013

A little more work was done tonight.

I replaced the factory caps with Mundorf M - caps. I used a Supreme bypass cap in each group of caps as well - they're the small black cap in each bundle. The caps were hot glued in place and then zip tied to the board.

Obviously, there was no room on the board for the inductor anymore so this was moved to where you see it at top right. The transformer to its left was moved a few cm to the left and the resistors in front of it were realigned as well thus freeing up space for the inductor which was also oriented to sit on its edge to reduce interference from the inductor on bottom right. From factory, all three inductors sit on the same plain, same orientation and close to each other. Not ideal at all.