Are my panels broken?

[JMAUSGP]

Could this be a static charge? Does it crackle without the covers and without you touching them?

Have you turned them up without touching them and listened for the crackle?

Could you be confusing releasing the Cracken with referencing the Crackle?

Sorry, this just doesn't sound right, maybe someone else can help or maybe someone else will chime in.

 

[projectormovielover]

Could this be a static charge? Does it crackle without the covers and without you touching them?

Have you turned them up without touching them and listened for the crackle?

Could you be confusing releasing the Cracken with referencing the Crackle?

Sorry, this just doesn't sound right, maybe someone else can help or maybe someone else will chime in.

Nope the captin crunch definitely comes out my crack

 

[amey01]

I just checked and they look fine

Maybe I will try the hair dryer

NO! Don't try the hair dryer unless you know the problem you are trying to solve. No point just pointing hot air at your speaker.

Make extra sure there is no crinkle. A torch (you guys call them a "flashlight") may help. Make sure you see the panel in all light from all angles - sometimes the crinkle can be hard to see.

Check this thread. The FIRST picture is my speaker - it was very hard to photograph. http://www.martinloganowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5789&highlight=membrane

I agree - this doesn't sound right. Usually, crackling noises are from pollutants on the panels. Problem is, that shouldn't have any effect by touching the panels as you say. Have you cleaned them with a vacuum yet?

 

[Gordon Gray]

Guys,

Maybe I'm missing something but if the mylar touches the stator, it will make a popping sound.

GG

 

[Beakman]

Could this be a static charge? Does it crackle without the covers and without you touching them?

Have you turned them up without touching them and listened for the crackle?

Could you be confusing releasing the Cracken with referencing the Crackle?

Sorry, this just doesn't sound right, maybe someone else can help or maybe someone else will chime in.

ok.
It's "Kraken", Kra-kin! That dumb ass remake has it all wrong!
Thus the speaker may be Krakeling and there's the rub.

 

[robertawillisjr]

Guys,

Maybe I'm missing something but if the mylar touches the stator, it will make a popping sound.

GG

I second that thought. Mylar is a good conductor of static electricity. The following is from: http://www.dotpattern.com/supplies/storage-product-guide.html

"Mylar D" and "Melinex 516" are trade names for a special way to make a crystal-clear and strong form of PET plastic, used for true archival-quality storage and conservation products. Mylar is "bi-axially extruded polyester film", which aligns the "chains" of molten plastic both vertically and horizontally, similar to the 'grain' in a sheet of paper.

■Best plastic storage for a valuable collection.
■long-term protection for paper (100 years).
■Mandatory for archival conservation
■Crystal clear and very strong
■very effective barrier against air & moisture
■resistant to grease, oil, heat, oxidation
■chemically inert & non-yellowing
■will not shrink - "dimensionally stable"
■naturally UV resistant
■Can be produced without harmful additives
■generates static electricity which attracts dust
■Mylar is more expensive than "Poly" products

 

[DTB300]

Wow....has this thread taken a wild turn...such a simple problem.....

If your speakers are "NEW" and not "HOT", "STOLEN" or from a "WHITE VAN", go back to the establishment, tell them of your problem, and try to get them replaced.

-OR-...gasp....Call Martin Logan and ask them......Gesshhhh...

 

[Bernard]

■naturally UV resistant

Then why are we told to keep the speakers out of the sun ?

 

[robertawillisjr]

Then why are we told to keep the speakers out of the sun ?

Resistant is not impervious. Otherwise, I don't know.

 

[robertawillisjr]

Wow....has this thread taken a wild turn...such a simple problem.....

If your speakers are "NEW" and not "HOT", "STOLEN" or from a "WHITE VAN", go back to the establishment, tell them of your problem, and try to get them replaced.

-OR-...gasp....Call Martin Logan and ask them......Gesshhhh...

And they will most probably ask the same questions that we have. Gesshhhh...

Moreover they will make the same suggestions. I don't where he bought the speakers but the vendor may not be a high end dealer.

I once went to an HT vendor and installer who somehow became an ML dealer. I asked to hear the Prodigy's they had on display. The salesman said that the "tweeters" weren't working. I looked at the rear of the speakers and there wasn't a power cord in sight.:ROFL:

 

[JRace]

I would disconect the speaker from power for 24hrs.
Leaving unplugged does the issue still occur?

If NO, then it may have been a static-electricity issue.
If YES, then it could be a physical problem with the panel.

 

[JMAUSGP]

I don't where he bought the speakers but the vendor may not be a high end dealer.

I once went to an HT vendor and installer who somehow became an ML dealer. I asked to hear the Prodigy's they had on display. The salesman said that the "tweeters" weren't working. I looked at the rear of the speakers and there wasn't a power cord in sight.:ROFL:

That's because someone at MLC told him to unplug them for 24 hours

 

[Gordon Gray]

Pretty simple explanation I think.

Hi guys,

To perhaps expand on my previous post, my understanding is that anytime the mylar touches the panel, there will be an electrical interaction. That's why there are the "spacers" that run perpendicular to the panel length. There's one on each side of the mylar, which creates the "space" prohibiting the mylar from touching the stator.

Happened to me one time when I overdrove bass panel section of the CLS2A's. In extreme cases, you will also see a blue light (MY GOD, IT'S FULL OF STARS ) coming from the panel (and hear a pop), otherwise known as arching.

GG

 

[Horchem1972]

Call ML and see what they tell you to do.If it is not resolved, then have them send you new panels.It is absurd to use heat if the speakers are still under warranty.I was told by Jim Powers years ago that heat should only be used on the CLS models,and only on the bass sections of those panels.