Maybe, maybe not. The Sigs are one of the easiest. My amps are rated at 80 Watts, but can deliver 130 Watt peaks. Actually, the printed spec that came with the amp says 170, but I think it is a misprint. Check the following post by Graz, who was blown away with some weak 25 Watt DXT tube amps connected into his own modified design:
"WARNING - this thread is looking for ultimate amplifiers, that deliver in all respects.
The recent amplifier tube thread got me thinking as the experience I had told me in no uncertain terms that an established good ref amplifier I know well and have heard over 8 years was missing bits from it's performance. Truth is - having the Apogee's, even the less demanding ones still have a base level of requirement that goes beyond what many speakers need. Being generally inefficient, power requirements are high to achieve the FULL dynamic response the speakers can deliver. In extreme cases such as the Scintilla - an amplifier needs to deliver almost 1200w into a 0.85 ohm load on peaks to truly drive the speaker to the acoustic power limit. BUT - this is only one limit. Live music reproduction needs a level of realism that most Apogee's can convey convincingly if driven properly. Air, space, scale, timing. An amplifier that can flatten the foils may still come up well short in terms of realism. Everybody knows an Audiophile that turns up the wick to disguise the fact they should be changing their kit!!
So let's look at what we actually really need to get this complete set of requirements!
Many hare have stated they need the full power, so lets look at a few of the true power requirements to drive to the full sound output of the following 5 "specimen" classic Apogee's;-
Caliper Signature. About 100w into 2-3 ohms.
Duetta Signature. About 120w into 2.5-3.5 ohms
Diva. About 300w into 3-4 ohms. Likes biamp.
Scintilla. 1100w into 0.85 ohms. Gulp.
Full Range. 900w into 1.6 ohms. Needs biamp.
All amplifiers need to be fed what it takes to really drive as designed, in the case of the Scintilla and FR this means several "cooker" lines from the power board, or else the amp will not be performing optimally...
OK, so that's power. What about realism? How do we define it? Measure it? Agree on it? I will open up here - the recent DXT amplifiers taught me the 25w mono powers sound more realistic than a Musical Fidelity M3's power amps, driven by the MF's pre section. I also learned the bottle-tube DXT pre amp further added realism to this picture, when not changing source or speakers. Something in the music was surviving despite the comparative low power, so whatever "absolute amplifier" would have to retain this ingredient!
My (at the time 77yo) mother once commented in a comparison between 3 amps (ICE1000asp/ICE500a/Nuvista M3) "the last two don't sound so ALIVE as the first" amp. No commercial bias, old ears. Yet what she stated we were in complete agreement on. This ingredient.
What is it - and what amplifiers have it in spades, PLUS the power requirements and composure to drive the full dynamic envelope?
Curious - Graz"
Another possibility is tube amps on the mid/tweeter, SS on the bass - which needs the real power. The impedance isn't as low as Logans.
Check out the Scintilla power requirements:devil: