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The OEM woofer is 'bad' because it has a passive xo in between the amp and the woofer. Go active xo, and that old woofer is unbottled to go and live its best life...
 
Can anyone comment on how much different or better the sound is or will be. How bad is the OEM woofer anyway?
Since the ReQuest and Monolith III were made in roughly the same timeframe, they likely used the same 12" driver in both. I can assure you that any modern 12" driver will result in much better-controlled bass.

I found it much 'tighter', and of course, by crossing over higher, the mid-bass sounded much more present.

The combo of the old driver and passive XO was pretty bad. Going active was an immediate win, and later, upgrading the woofer was yet another step forward in clarity and authority.
 
Funny since Martin Logan boast about the crossover and their woofers in all the ads. I do like the idea of active crossover. I'm guessing I will use my Mini DSP. Correct me if I am wrong. Two things do concern me about going active.
1. I will have to switch out the Mark Levinson amp with my Sunfire since it's multi channel. Not sure of the sound difference.
2. I think the Mini DSP will convert the analog signal to digital, reshape the sound and convert it back into analog. What will that do to the purity of the sound at the end of the day?
With all that said, I will purchase the woofers that JonFo recommended and start from there.
Any other ideas on crossovers?
 
Funny since Martin Logan boast about the crossover and their woofers in all the ads. I do like the idea of active crossover. I'm guessing I will use my Mini DSP. Correct me if I am wrong. Two things do concern me about going active.
1. I will have to switch out the Mark Levinson amp with my Sunfire since it's multi channel. Not sure of the sound difference.
2. I think the Mini DSP will convert the analog signal to digital, reshape the sound and convert it back into analog. What will that do to the purity of the sound at the end of the day?
With all that said, I will purchase the woofers that JonFo recommended and start from there.
Any other ideas on crossovers?

Not to worry... even with the added D/A & A/D conversions, once you've experienced active bi-amping, you will NEVER go back to a passive setup.

The only stipulation is that the DSP must have EQ capability because any tuning filters (notch or shelving filters) in the passive crossover to balance the frequency response will likewise be bypassed.

You will also find that the bass will tighten up considerably and you will have almost infinite tuning capability--- once you have it dialed in, it will sound WAY better than before.

Before I went fully digital, I used an analog preamp upstream of a DBX Driverack Venu 360 DSP/Crossover, which required additional A/D + D/C conversions in the signal path and it sounded great.

I later replaced the Carver C1 analog preamp and went straight digital out of a Logitech Transporter (which is also a digital preamp) directly to the digital input on the DSP. This eliminated the additional A/D + D/A conversions, leaving just a single D/A conversion out to the amps.

My new setup sounds fabulous but I can't say that it sounds a lot better than it did with the Carver C1 and additonal conversions in the signal path.

So don't worry-- get rid of the passsive crossover and be happy!
 
Since I believe JonFo has a great reputation I am leaning to replacing the OEM woofer included in the ReQuests' with the Dayton Audio DSA315-8 12" Designer Series Aluminum Cone that he suggested in his reply. Can anyone comment on how much different or better the sound is or will be. How bad is the OEM woofer anyway?
Might check if the 4ohm version is recommended vs 8ohm. My QuestZ are 4ohm woofers.
 
Wow Zwick, good catch. I did not even think of that. According to the ML specs, it's 4 ohm impedance. Short of taking the cabinet apart, it's fair to say 4 ohm woofer. Now since I am shopping again, Does the forum think I should match the new woofers specs with the OEM speakers specs? (I did it replacing the torn woofers in my Sequels) Specs as in Q & Resonate Frequency ETC.... Also JonFo suggested in the 8 ohm version an Aluminum Cone style. Any suggestions on cone type.
Cone choices are: Paper w/Glass fiber or Paper/Kevlar or Aluminum or Paper or Carbon Fiber or Coated Paper or Nomex/Glass Fiber or Paper/Carbon Fiber or Poly. Yikes
I did notice that most woofers are 8 ohm and most sub woofers are 4 ohm.
 
Wow Zwick, good catch. I did not even think of that. According to the ML specs, it's 4 ohm impedance. Short of taking the cabinet apart, it's fair to say 4 ohm woofer.
No. Take the woofer out and check. Or you could ask ML service.

You want more than a good woofer - will want to match the specs exactly, as the cabinet, XO, etc are all designed around it.
 
I’m considering changing my original Questz woofers. If using the std passive bass crossover pretty sure all recommendations are 4 ohms. Now that I’m active on the bass also curious if sticking with 4 ohms is the recommendation. Certainly would allow going back to passive crossover again if a future owner desired. Will never happen while I own them.
 
I’m considering changing my original Questz woofers. If using the std passive bass crossover pretty sure all recommendations are 4 ohms. Now that I’m active on the bass also curious if sticking with 4 ohms is the recommendation. Certainly would allow going back to passive crossover again if a future owner desired. Will never happen while I own them.
If the original woofers are still functional just save them, that’s what I did with my Odyssey woofers. That way if you did ever sell them and the buyer wanted the passive crossovers hooked back up you can just put the original woofers back in and hook them up.
And your last sentence is right on the money. I’ve been able to try different woofers to see what sounded the best to me without worrying what the impedance is. The active crossover on the woofers gives you so many options for getting better sound it’s just amazing.
 
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