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Hello and Happy 4th of July to all. I finally washed the panels and the results or benefits we're minimal, but they look crystal clean. I washed the panels mounted and unplugged them both from the main ac and also the panel was disconnected from the woofer enclosure. I waited about 48 hours for any charge to dissipate. My process was simple soap and distilled water starting from side to side at the top down to the bottom using 2 spray bottles one with soap and distilled water and the second bottle with just distilled water. I would spray some soap and distilled water lightly scrub with a soft bristle brush then using a shop vac to remove all the soap and water. Then apply the distilled water to the same area and vacuum again with the shop vac. Note the shop vac has a bristle tip on it and I would do the width of the panel and 12 inch sections. Finally, i dried the panels with a hair dryer on low heat. As mentioned the benefits were minimal on the one working panel and the other showed no improvement other than looking better. I did swap panels and the sound swapped also so my electronics are fine. Attached are pictures of the soldering iron that I have used numerous times soldering Martin Logan panels. The Weller gun has been the only thing hot enough to make a proper joint. You can find it on amazon fir under $50. Hope everyone had a great 4th and a safe one.
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Forgive me if this has already been asked somewhere else, but I'm assuming you have swapped panels from one speaker to the next?

Also we really gotta work on getting these troubleshooting threads all in one spot, people post this stuff all over the place and it makes it much harder to see what's been tested and what hasn't.
 
Forgive me if this has already been asked somewhere else, but I'm assuming you have swapped panels from one speaker to the next?

Also we really gotta work on getting these troubleshooting threads all in one spot, people post this stuff all over the place and it makes it much harder to see what's been tested and what hasn't.
Sorry Brandon I will repost in a Prodigy troubleshooting
 
Hello and Happy 4th of July to all. I finally washed the panels and the results or benefits we're minimal, but they look crystal clean. I washed the panels mounted and unplugged them both from the main ac and also the panel was disconnected from the woofer enclosure. I waited about 48 hours for any charge to dissipate. My process was simple soap and distilled water starting from side to side at the top down to the bottom using 2 spray bottles one with soap and distilled water and the second bottle with just distilled water. I would spray some soap and distilled water lightly scrub with a soft bristle brush then using a shop vac to remove all the soap and water. Then apply the distilled water to the same area and vacuum again with the shop vac. Note the shop vac has a bristle tip on it and I would do the width of the panel and 12 inch sections. Finally, i dried the panels with a hair dryer on low heat. As mentioned the benefits were minimal on the one working panel and the other showed no improvement other than looking better. I did swap panels and the sound swapped also so my electronics are fine. Attached are pictures of the soldering iron that I have used numerous times soldering Martin Logan panels. The Weller gun has been the only thing hot enough to make a proper joint. You can find it on amazon fir under $50. Hope everyone had a great 4th and a safe one. View attachment 24369View attachment 24370

Not sure if everyone is aware of this so I'm mentioning it:
Most dish washing liquids and even some hand soaps contain sodium laurel sulfate, which is electrically conductive.

So, anyone uses dish soap to clean your panels, be sure to rinse them thoroughly to remove any soap residue which would create conduction paths from the diaphragm to the stators via the edges of the spars and edge spacers.

In fact; many DIY ESL speaker builders use dish soap as the conductive coating on their diaphragms-- a 50/50 mix of dish washing liquid and water applied with a cotton ball works perfectly for this!
 
Hello and Happy 4th of July to all. I finally washed the panels and the results or benefits we're minimal, but they look crystal clean. I washed the panels mounted and unplugged them both from the main ac and also the panel was disconnected from the woofer enclosure. I waited about 48 hours for any charge to dissipate. My process was simple soap and distilled water starting from side to side at the top down to the bottom using 2 spray bottles one with soap and distilled water and the second bottle with just distilled water. I would spray some soap and distilled water lightly scrub with a soft bristle brush then using a shop vac to remove all the soap and water. Then apply the distilled water to the same area and vacuum again with the shop vac. Note the shop vac has a bristle tip on it and I would do the width of the panel and 12 inch sections. Finally, i dried the panels with a hair dryer on low heat. As mentioned the benefits were minimal on the one working panel and the other showed no improvement other than looking better. I did swap panels and the sound swapped also so my electronics are fine. Attached are pictures of the soldering iron that I have used numerous times soldering Martin Logan panels. The Weller gun has been the only thing hot enough to make a proper joint. You can find it on amazon fir under $50. Hope everyone had a great 4th and a safe one.
I swapped my electronics cabinets between the 2 speakers and the problem still stayed with the speaker, so I've now ruled out the panels and electronics. The only other possibility is the panel connector itself according to ML. Here's an email from ML (although we were discussing a clicking problem with my panel back then):

1688520856667.png


I'm not suggesting you replace the connector as mentioned in the attachment, but you might want to inspect it.
 

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1800rpm, thanks I will take a look at the connection. I have thought about changing them out anyway with something better. I'm in Aviation so I deal with connecting stuff on a daily basis. When I get a better solution that is better, easy and cost economically I will post it. Thanks again
 
I swapped my electronics cabinets between the 2 speakers and the problem still stayed with the speaker, so I've now ruled out the panels and electronics. The only other possibility is the panel connector itself according to ML. Here's an email from ML (although we were discussing a clicking problem with my panel back then):

View attachment 24371

I'm not suggesting you replace the connector as mentioned in the attachment, but you might want to inspect it.

Is that Euro-connector in the photo connecting the panel to the power supply?

I use Euro-connectors in my DIY speaker builds. I suppose one could go bad but failing with only partial continuity (rather than no continuity) would be unusual.

If you don't have a replacement connector you could just pull the wires out of the connector and temporarily twist them together to verify the problem was in the connector (just keep the twisted wires separated 1/4" or more to prevent arcing between them).

Hope that fixes your problem!

BTW; Mouser or Digikey would have those Euro-connectors.
 
1800rpm, thanks I will take a look at the connection. I have thought about changing them out anyway with something better. I'm in Aviation so I deal with connecting stuff on a daily basis. When I get a better solution that is better, easy and cost economically I will post it. Thanks again

Hey I worked in aviation too-- now retired from Gulfstream Aerospace in Savannah, GA. But I've also worked in defense aviation with Grumman, Northrop, Sikorsky, Vought. Small world!
 
Hey I worked in aviation too-- now retired from Gulfstream Aerospace in Savannah, GA. But I've also worked in defense aviation with Grumman, Northrop, Sikorsky, Vought. Small world!
Retired! What is that!
 
Good for you. I totally understand. I will be ordering these from Amazon. I believe this should do the job. RPM1800 I will be your test subject and let you know the results.
 

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I have a working Prodigy panel, if you can use it, near Baltimore.
Great, what are you asking for it. I do not mind paying for your time to drop it off at FedEx or Ups (they can pack it) plus the cost of the panel. Thank you for the offer
 
The connector appears to be an Alden Pulse-lok. Looking at their website it seems like they make medical connectors. This particular connector is somewhat customized for ML, at least with a logo. ML says they are no longer available nor made.

1688629309575.png
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The front and back of the connector in the speaker cabinet looks like this:

1688629516334.png
1688629475424.png


The proposed solution from ML is this (pic from ML):

1688629586204.png


Stephen Bolser from DIYAudio says that there could be a leakage path in the connector, which would explain the lack of volume. ML also says that if the panel and electronics have been ruled out, the connector could be an issue.
 
Is that Euro-connector in the photo connecting the panel to the power supply?

I use Euro-connectors in my DIY speaker builds. I suppose one could go bad but failing with only partial continuity (rather than no continuity) would be unusual.

If you don't have a replacement connector you could just pull the wires out of the connector and temporarily twist them together to verify the problem was in the connector (just keep the twisted wires separated 1/4" or more to prevent arcing between them).

Hope that fixes your problem!

BTW; Mouser or Digikey would have those Euro-connectors.

Geeze...after re-reading your post, it seems I was looking at the wrong connector. Now it makes sense.
 
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