PanEl Dying, fix or move on

[MOON]

I am at odds what to do about my panel losing the highs in one of my Odyssey's. I am in Canada and replacement panels are $3000. I am not sure I want to sink that money into them. The speaker in question had a circuit board replacement years ago under warranty through ML.

The same speaker has the blue light out. Ml sent me the part replacement which I never got that light working agsin. Due to the age of the speaker 2005 and the issues being with the one speaker, panel, circuit board light it doesn't seem money well spent for new panels.

So, I can move on, always didn't like the narrow sweet spot but liked the sound. Buy a used set of Odyssey's, keep my good ones for parts. Buy a newer set of Ml's like montis.

Get other new speakers ( Magnepan 3.7i , Dynaudio Confidence C2 platinum )sell my good one to a friend with Odyssey's for parts. What are your thoughts on this?

 

[twich54]

Only your ears can make that decision. With that being said I say audition the new Logans. As for the Maggies, if you have the space and the amplification there's not many, if any, at their price point that compete IMO.

FWIW, th speaker that pulled me away from Logan was the Revel Studio2, but that was before I listened to the 13A's ..........

 

[TomDac]

I thought there was another, less costly option for getting panels rebuilt.. Some guy in Nebraska or something... Search and you should find it..

 

[roni44]

Contact Russ Knotts [email protected], he quoted 400USD plus shipping for rebuilt pair of Aerius panel. Below is the email I've gotten from him.

"Martin login Aries panels recondition cost $400.00 per pair plus return shipping. I carefully separate the front stators of the panels, then did a total cleaning removing any contaminants from the panels and diaphragm along with removing old ML coating, remove old tape and repair diaphragm if needed. Next recoat the Mylar diaphragm with my proprietary diaphragm coating which will not burn off like the ML coating and last much longer then the ML coating . My coating is light gray in color and has more of a stained glass look to it instead of the ML clear coating. Installed a new copper corona conductor to the diaphragm. Then reassemble the panels, run SPL measurements and did each panel burn in. Test output SPL of both panels for balance if passed within our specs Panels then ready ready for packing and return shipment. Turn around is about 4 to 6 weeks. I only need the panels shipped for the repair."

I'm not affiliated with Russ in any way. Just happen to find his information over the web and contacted him.

 

[TomDac]

^^^ Yes.. this was the guy.

 

[Brad225]

Moon, this is only going to be somewhat helpful as I am missing some information.

I know of someone in the not to distant past that sent his panels to him for a rebuild and was very happy with the results.
Sorry I don't remember who it was.

 

[john65b]

You can save quite a bit of cash if you carefully open your panels, and spray Licron Crystal (a staticide that gets hazy after drying - may be what Ron uses?) on your panels for the coating. I have also used cheap and easy to find hand soap with Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (wipe on with tissue and comes out nice and clear).

I am currently modifying a CLS panel, getting rid of the double sided tape and using magnets, with new full perimeter copper bias ring and Handsoap for diaphragm coating...I can then easily reopen, wipe clean and reapply the handsoap coating after they start sounding dull.

 

[jaffrie]

No need to re-coat panels gents. There's a very nice gentleman in this forum who informed me that Ascent/Odyssey/Prodigy was produced using new vapour deposit coating which will not degrade over time & this coating is what is being used till today perhaps in improved form. The major issue with dying panels is due to the fact that ML uses a carbon coated aluminium tape as the charge strip & off course that horribly tape on wire onto the charge strip. If your handy with diy, some patients & time will reward you with panels sounding dare I say as good if not better then new. I repaired my Odyssey panels, changing the charge strip to copper & soldering the wire onto the copper strip. As to coating, I bought this from ER Audio applied it along the new charge strip over lapping by about 10mm onto the mylar. Presto sounds as good as new. There's no need to totally remove the whole front stator just prying open the side where the wires are attached too will do but you need to apply some glue softening agent a couple of times to add in splitting the stator.

Cheers