Monolith refresh - Panels, woofers and rail stain updates

[JonFo]

Johnwa, congrats on the new Sub, those REL's are nice.

See, removing the low-end workload from these speakers really makes a difference. Not only do you get more low-bass, you should be getting much cleaner mid-bass as well. As pretty much any 12" driver will have significant third-order harmonics (~ -45dB) in the >120Hz region when playing low frequencies. So removing those <60hz signals from the Monolith/Quest drivers allows them to play their freq. range much cleaner.

As for the switches in the rear, they control the gain balance between panel and woofer. So if you were happy with the balance prior to the Sub, then leave them set as-is.
The front panel controls should allow you to dial in the balance between the sub and the woofer. Some measurements with test tones and a basic SPL meter should help you determine what’s best. Keep in mind though that probably more room modes are engaged now with a more capable low-frequency driver. EQ’ing the sub is what tools like the Velodyne SMS-1 or the upcoming SVS – Audyssey room correctors.
http://www.svsound.com/CES2007/SVS_AudyessyRelease.pdf

But that’s the next step, for now, enjoy the great sound

 

[johnwa]

Man there is always something but each step does bring additional satisfaction you don't know you were missing until you have it. Do you endorce these EQ's in additon to the Driverack or instead of?

Glad to hear I don't need to move everything again to get to the switches as I am very content with the sound, with or without, the sub with the settings as is.

I do have to really work on the room treatments as you suggest and or take everything off the walls as I get some vibrations now that make it feel like the walls are going to implode on some passages.

That said, I had already reached my level of incompetancy with just following the clear diagrams you and the manufactures lay out so I think I will need to call in an expert on the room dynamics.

As always, thank you for your help and great advice.

 

[DrWily008]

Thread - Rise from your grave!

Hi JonFo, I know this thread has been dead for a while, but I have a question.

Have you put any more thought into changing the color of the light oak rails? I too would like to change the color on mine and would love any suggestions.

Also the switch from passive crossovers to active crossovers...was it worth it? I've not started looking for a separate ML crossover any good suggestions where to start.

Thanks in advance - Ken Bell

 

[Cherian]

Active crossover is the only way to go!! I had passive on mine and switched to active and it is so much better. Just know if you go active you will need 4 channels of amplification. I was going to buy the below listed crossover but my wife decided we needed new front doors.

The krell crossover is even set up for the monoliths.

http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?preatran&1243689310&/Krell-KBX-2-way-active-crossov

 

[DrWily008]

Thanks Cherian! I actually thought that the Martin Logan X-Over was my only option. That Krell would definitely fit the bill to.

BTW - Your system is quite impressive, it looks like the gear you have makes your Monolith SING!

 

[JonFo]

Thanks Cherian! I actually thought that the Martin Logan X-Over was my only option. That Krell would definitely fit the bill to.

BTW - Your system is quite impressive, it looks like the gear you have makes your Monolith SING!

Actually Krell built the active Crossover for the Monolith.

The unit linked on A'gon is pretty much the same (identical?) unit as the ML unit.

I use DBX DriveRacks for my crossovers, a little more work to integrate, but much more flexibility.

If looking for something simple and straightforward, then that Krell is the best option, I'd suggest jumping on it, as they are rare.

If you are game for more complexity, then let me know. My middle name is complex (or was that I have a complex, I can never keep that straight ).

 

[JonFo]

Hi JonFo, I know this thread has been dead for a while, but I have a question.

Have you put any more thought into changing the color of the light oak rails? I too would like to change the color on mine and would love any suggestions.

Also the switch from passive crossovers to active crossovers...was it worth it? I've not started looking for a separate ML crossover any good suggestions where to start.

Thanks in advance - Ken Bell

Ken,

I've yet to change the rail colors. My strategy right now is to create a cover that will not mar the original and give me the darker color I'm looking for.
Still need to schedule the time to implement. So that's pending.

I highly recommend using actives. They much more 'amp-friendly' since there are no power-robbing coils, caps and resistors in the audio path.

Depending on models, the ability to create much steeper crossover slopes is also a big benefit.

 

[DrWily008]

Actually Krell built the active Crossover for the Monolith.

The unit linked on A'gon is pretty much the same (identical?) unit as the ML unit.

I use DBX DriveRacks for my crossovers, a little more work to integrate, but much more flexibility.

If looking for something simple and straightforward, then that Krell is the best option, I'd suggest jumping on it, as they are rare.

If you are game for more complexity, then let me know. My middle name is complex (or was that I have a complex, I can never keep that straight ).

I appreciate the "complex" offer, when I have some time I will take you up on that. :bowdown:

I however am a little short on cash right now, so the Krell is out of bounds for a little while. I can just cross my fingers to see if it is still there down the road.

You guys rock and I look foward to future conversations. I really love this website!

 

[DrWily008]

Well as a temporary deal, I will be going with a passive bi-amp. This will involve taking apart my passive crossovers and switching a switch over.

To be honest, I have never had something of the caliber opened before and am worried about making a mistake. Is there anything I should look out for/avoid?

Thanks - Ken

 

[JonFo]

It should be pretty straight-forward. It's just a pair of high-voltage power supply-type slide switches (you know, the kind for selecting 240 vs 120).
Do some more searches on my posts, I know I’ve covered that before.

But post pics and any questions in a new thread and we can take it from there.