How to fix your own CLS panel and save $1500.00.
- Thread starter gregadd
- Start date
Help Support MartinLogan Audio Owners Forum:
Actually, if someone would just summarize the results and post a 'tweak' in the tweak section, that would help owners of all models.
Adding in these pics and more details about the soldering process would be great.
Glad to see the fix was straightforward.
Adding in these pics and more details about the soldering process would be great.
Glad to see the fix was straightforward.
TomDac
former MLO owner/operator
I agree this thread contains a lot of valuable info.. Not enough to warrant it being a sticky, but let's rename it and put it in the DIY section.
What should the new name be?
What should the new name be?
roberto
Well-known member
Hola...thinking loud, how about: Repair and solder the stat wires of any ML panel...happy listening,
Roberto.
"Necessity is the mother of invention'
How to fix your own CLS panel and save $1500.00.
I'll post picture of the solder, soldering and silicone caulk this weekend.
Gregadd
How to fix your own CLS panel and save $1500.00.
I'll post picture of the solder, soldering and silicone caulk this weekend.
Gregadd
Tools of the trade
Jim Powers was a big help. He suggested Silicone Caulk as an adhesive.
Those of you with "skills" can do a much better job of soldering and gluing.
If you decide to glue the inside wire (recommended by me)you need to be careful not to insulate the wire completely with glue.
Pry the panels apart a little at a time. I pryed them open to far because, I was planning to solder and needed room to get the iron in without melting any thing. Additionally when you pry open the panels, I suggest a standard flat edge screw driver. The panels should come apart leaving the Mylar diaphragm bonded to the foam ( the joint is stronger than the surrounding foam) When you glue it back together you should be bonding foam to foam.
When soldering the outside wires we used the original solder. We used new solder to bind the wire to the old solder which bonded to the stator.
Leave the panels clamped together overnight. You can test the panel to see if it is playable without putting it back in the frame. Just plug in the power and speaker cord. Then plug the little plastic block back onto the circuit board.
Make sure you do this correctly. I did it wrong and thought the repair had failed. (I also got a little shock. No danger. To be safe plug in the power cord last.) Just glue one side. The pressure of the panels will hold it in place. Use "C" clamps of your choice.
Be gentle putting the wires thought the hole in the frame. Again,care is needed puttings the panel in the frame , The frame will also ad additional support.
Here' hoping you never need to do this.
Jim Powers was a big help. He suggested Silicone Caulk as an adhesive.
Those of you with "skills" can do a much better job of soldering and gluing.
If you decide to glue the inside wire (recommended by me)you need to be careful not to insulate the wire completely with glue.
Pry the panels apart a little at a time. I pryed them open to far because, I was planning to solder and needed room to get the iron in without melting any thing. Additionally when you pry open the panels, I suggest a standard flat edge screw driver. The panels should come apart leaving the Mylar diaphragm bonded to the foam ( the joint is stronger than the surrounding foam) When you glue it back together you should be bonding foam to foam.
When soldering the outside wires we used the original solder. We used new solder to bind the wire to the old solder which bonded to the stator.
Leave the panels clamped together overnight. You can test the panel to see if it is playable without putting it back in the frame. Just plug in the power and speaker cord. Then plug the little plastic block back onto the circuit board.
Make sure you do this correctly. I did it wrong and thought the repair had failed. (I also got a little shock. No danger. To be safe plug in the power cord last.) Just glue one side. The pressure of the panels will hold it in place. Use "C" clamps of your choice.
Be gentle putting the wires thought the hole in the frame. Again,care is needed puttings the panel in the frame , The frame will also ad additional support.
Here' hoping you never need to do this.
Attachments
Bernard
Well-known member
I was just thinking that after you re-solder the connection to the panel it may be a good idea to cover the solder joint and part of the wire with epoxy as it would make for a stronger joint - I have had a wire on my SL3 get undone in a simple move of a few inches.
The only drawback I see to the epoxy is that once it's on you can't get it off, if you have to for any reason. Opinions?
The only drawback I see to the epoxy is that once it's on you can't get it off, if you have to for any reason. Opinions?
update on repairs
One of the solder joints on the rear of the panel came loose. We stripped the old solder off and use new solder. Worked like a charm. The panel is playing as well as the other.
Gregadd:afro:
One of the solder joints on the rear of the panel came loose. We stripped the old solder off and use new solder. Worked like a charm. The panel is playing as well as the other.
Gregadd:afro:
