EFX Panel Repair

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sc1984

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Hello All,

I have an EFX panel that has gone bad. Martin Logan said they do not repair panels and would need to throw out my old panel and buy a new one. He steered me to this forum to see if maybe there is a repair shop or something. I searched the forum and didnt see any mention. So, sorry if this has been brought up a lot. Just seems a waste to throw out a panel. Any info would be appreciated.
 
Hi, I think I might have some ideas only ideas and I can explain a little. I replaced a computer chip in my old Sequel2 speakers. It brought the volume up and speed of the high frequency seem to have improved, but I don't know if your crossover Is similar to what I have. an other thing you could have broken a wire on the panel itself. It's only a thin
Hello All,

I have an EFX panel that has gone bad. Martin Logan said they do not repair panels and would need to throw out my old panel and buy a new one. He steered me to this forum to see if maybe there is a repair shop or something. I searched the forum and didnt see any mention. So, sorry if this has been brought up a lot. Just seems a waste to throw out a panel. Any info would be appreciated.

copper strips. I'll show you a couple of pictures.
71CE729B-A8AC-4802-8649-96306616C0DD_1_105_c.jpeg
A7768F98-0BA8-4335-9D3A-5EFB441D11CF_1_105_c.jpeg
A08A4082-D960-4E77-983B-069A3DB50291_1_105_c.jpeg
D46AF03C-3E14-4242-92BE-492907B91460_1_105_c.jpeg
 
Assuming you have isolated the problem to the panel (i.e. swapped panels or power supplies and the problem followed the panel); there are then only three possible causes-- but you will have to remove the front stator to determine which one it is.

I judge from the photos in the previous post that it's possible to remove the front stator without damaging the diaphragm.

Three possible causes and fixes for same:

1) A bad or corroded connection at the diaphragm contact. If this is found to be the problem. I recommend ordering a roll of 1/4" width copper foil tape (the type with conductive adhesive) from McMaster-Carr, solder the wire to the tape first and then apply the tape all the way around the panel periphery.

2) A short or leak path draining charge off the diaphragm. When this occurs, it's typically along a stator edge but could be a burn thru anywhere on the stator. An area showing black soot would be a dead giveaway. You can sometimes repair a burn thru of the stator coating by brushing on some fingernail polish.

3) Deteriorated diaphragm coating-- this would not happen suddenly but gradually over time. If you suspect the coating; an easy way to test for that:

Coat the diaphragm with a 50/50 mix of water and any liquid dish detergent containing sodium laurel sulfate (most dish liquids have this ingredient).

Wipe it on with a cotton ball but first mask off the outermost 1/8" of the diaphragm edges to prevent creating a conduction path to the stator. The dish soap mixture is an excellent conductive coating and will restore full volume to the panel-- if that was the problem to begin with.

The dish soap could be semi-permanent coating but it attracts dust so its best to use it only as a test. If that fixed the problem; wipe it off with water and isopropyl alcohol, the order a can of Licron Crystal ESD coating and spray apply one coat "just wet" for your permanent coating.

Below is a video showing a wire-stator ESL panel build. Sorry it's not a Martin Logan panel but it's what I have. The charge ring will be similar on a Martin Logan except I apply the charge ring to the opposite stator, whereas and it appears that ML applies the charge ring directly onto the diaphragm:



Good luck with your panel!
Charlie
 
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Wow. Thanks for the info. I'll have to confirm the issue specifically. I know only a small portion of the panel plays. Roughly middle or upper middle area of panel. Rest of panel is dead. It's probably just about an inch or 2 worth of vertical sound I can hear putting my ear up and down the panel if that makes sense
 
Hi Henry, here I see you're an engineer, so if you Dare this project of disassembling your panel, I can provide you some more images of what I have done to my speakers/panels I think a good check would be to take the other panel and get it wired to your good crossover. That seem to be playing music to check if it's the panel or if it's the crossover. it's a scary feeling opening up the panel but it did, pod fairly easy with a good amount of rubbing alcohol but it is a very thin film and an other thing my panels are really old so the foam glue lines might not be as good of quality as what they use today I will try and check in again day after tomorrow
 
I panel has been tested. I have another EFX and swapped the panel. It still had the same problem with new crossover/chamber. At this point I dont think I can make matters worse in trying to fix it.

Jazzman, Just an FYI those are not my photos. They were posted by Henrik. I've been told by martin logan you cant disassemble without damage, but dont know if that is accurate.
 
I panel has been tested. I have another EFX and swapped the panel. It still had the same problem with new crossover/chamber. At this point I dont think I can make matters worse in trying to fix it.

Jazzman, Just an FYI those are not my photos. They were posted by Henrik. I've been told by martin logan you cant disassemble without damage, but dont know if that is accurate.
I had Russ Knotts here in Ohio look at dismantling my Prodigy panels and he told me that it would be near impossible to do it without damaging the mylar membrane. He said the older panels were easiest to do, so older than 2000. I ended up just buying new panels.
 
You might want to save those old panels to play with someday :)

If you're handy and up for it, you could replace the spacer/adhesive tape and install new diaphragms. Whatever tape you need would be available from McMaster-Carr online. And the 12-micron Mylar C that ML uses is available on Ebay for about $35: Electrostatic Speaker Membrane Dupont Mylar C 12um 20m for sale online | eBay

Because ML panels are curved, the diaphragm must be tensioned predominantly in the height direction, as any significant lateral tension would pull the diaphragm into the rear stator. You would only apply the smallest amount of lateral tension needed to pull out any wrinkles in the film.

ML diaphragms are tensioned quite high, so they use the thicker 12-micron film to withstand the higher tension. The diaphragm's drum-head resonance (that sound you hear when you tap on the panel) is set by its tension.

I tension my diaphragms to achieve a drum-head resonance of about 100Hz, which equates to about 1% - 1.2% elongation, and I measure the elongation with a scale. But ML uses much higher tension and a thicker film so-- not the same. It's important to get the tension correct because ML will have tuned the crossover and notch or shelving filter circuitry to match a specific diaphragm tension/resonance.

Unfortunately I can't quantify for you the tension/measurement for a ML diaphragm. But if you have a good panel for reference, you could measure it's diaphragm's deflection using a weighted probe and scale-- and then tension your diaphragm to the same deflection.

The probe could be a small weight attached to a probe small enough to insert thru a stator hole, and soft enough on it's tip to not puncture the diaphragm. The weight could be stacked coins like quarters (whatever works). You would measure the deflection in the center area between the widest spacers.

FYI:
I was told by an ESL builder on the DIY Audio Forum that ML tensions their diaphragms quite high (about 250Hz drum-head resonance) to enable using the "distributed resonance" technique to enhance the panel's mid-bass output.

ML's approach arranges the lateral spacers (spars) with sequentially decreasing spacing, which breaks up the single/loud drum-head resonance into multiple quieter peaks spread over a wider bandwidth.

This approach does enhance the mid-bass output but I'm not a fan of using the drum-head resonance because it isn't music.

I prefer to tension the diaphragm to 100Hz or lower resonance, and then avoid exciting it by crossing the panel out and the woofer in at least one octave above the resonance using a very steep crossover slope :)
 
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