CLSIIz

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lugano,
You can't really see it but there is a pile of magizines on each box where your weights are. I was thinking of doing exactly what you had done. I think I saw that picture in your members thread.

Is it the shipping that is taking so long to get your panels?

My wife was happy last night when she didn't have to wait for me to change speaker cables so she could watch a movie.
 
lugano,
You can't really see it but there is a pile of magizines on each box where your weights are.

Aha !

I was looking at your pix and thinking...the glass doors of your cupboard... don't they disturb the sound ?

Is it the shipping that is taking so long to get your panels?

Yep. Everything here must be done through the official dealer, and they only organize a container 3-4 times a year, full with ML's and parts.
 
There was glass in the doors when I first built the cabinet but I removed it shortly after. It had more to do with opening the doors to watch TV and the
SL3s would play through the silk fabric. I didn't really matter for HT listening.
I can't wait to get the equipment into a room with out the cabinet in there. It has to disrupt the sound waves and image but it still sound wonderful.
 
Aha !

I was looking at your pix and thinking...the glass doors of your cupboard... don't they disturb the sound ?



Yep. Everything here must be done through the official dealer, and they only organize a container 3-4 times a year, full with ML's and parts.

Lugano,

Seems the whole of Europe gets the same 'great' service from the same French distributor.
Inflated prices and inflated waiting. :(

Adri.
 
Brad225,
I'm jealous. I saw those CLS speakers show up on audiogon and immediately went through evey scenario possible to be able to buy them. Enjoy...
 
Guys, I've done the weight thing for years, however, I discovered that an 8 x 16 x 2 in thick concrete cap block (or two) placed on top of the electronics unit does a much better job (distributes the weight and damps the top of the electronics chassis nicely.) It's also good to lay a piece of thin sheet foam between the block(s) and the top of the chassis (no scratches, better contact.)
I can also confirm the use of the Paver or Stepping Stones as they call them at Home Depot. $1.39 each. I covered mine in black fabric - left over from Acoustic Panel work to keep from scratching the electonics case. Works very well with one as overall sound improved across the board. I might try two and see if there is a difference. If no difference, I am only out less than $3.

When adding a sub, the CLS's should still be run full range (as I already said) and the sub should roll off starting at no higher than 35-40 Hz! That's absolutely all you need to provide the CLS with that extra bit of low frequency extension and to guarantee a flat frequency response across the transition from the CLS's to the sub (i.e. seamless). If you are running just one sub (which is all you really need below 35Hz) with dipolar panels like the CLS, it's best placed between and in line with the panels. If it has a phase adjust, it's best set to 90 degrees, which is the best "phase fit" between the front and rear phase(s) of the panels.
Since my room limits me to placement of most if not all of my equipment, I had to settle on my sub being right between my CLSIIz's. Remember I also have the SMS-1 to help with EQing of the sub and also help with getting proper settings. In my room and for my listening tastes, a 40Hz low-pass setting for my sub has the best sound on WELL RECORDED pieces. I have also found through use of the real-time graphing of the SMS-1, that the 90 Degree Phase setting generates the smoothest response between the panel and the sub in my setup.

Realize that these settings could SIGNIFICANTLY change with your room, equipment, etc. and one must play around to find what they like best.

Dan
 
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