JSCIVALLY
Member
I am waiting for my spike feet from Oregon DV to arrive for my ESL X’s
More Feet/Spike Advice
- Thread starter Dan Osib
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What size thread did you choose for your Xs? I have original Summits, and I want to try the Oregon DV spikes, too, but haven't yet figured out which thread size to order. Paul at Oregon DV suggested buying several bolts of varying sizes, trying them and see which one fits. The local hardware store, however, was decidedly unhelpful when I asked to buy one pf each of the suggested sizes.
RDC
Well-known member
Summits should have a 3/4"-16 thread size according to this helpful IsoAcoustics | Calculator
If I am not mistaken pointed feet are to loudspeakers what lens is to camera. Lens help to focus the output of the camera, namely the image. Similarly pointed feet help to focus the output of the loudspeaker, namely aural image.
A focused aural image possesses the qualities of imaging, extended highs, realistic or natural vocals and tight not flabby bass.
After employing pointed feet enjoy your ESL X to their design limit.
Hassebasse75
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Pointed feet on their own will not work wonders if the rest of the equipment and cables is not above par.
Pointed feet help to improve the sound by preventing the back and forth rocking motion of the loudspeakers caused by the loudspeaker drivers moving in and out.
For best results make sure all four feet make solid contact with the floor and that feet points are sharp or not blunt.
Pointed feet help to improve the sound by preventing the back and forth rocking motion of the loudspeakers caused by the loudspeaker drivers moving in and out.
For best results make sure all four feet make solid contact with the floor and that feet points are sharp or not blunt.
Isn't the big idea behind spikes just to minimize the surface area of contact between the speaker and the floor so as to minimize vibrations between the two? Mostly low frequencies, bass.
I dont see how the spikes do much else.
I dont see how the spikes do much else.
Hassebasse75
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It’s not the spikes, I Wonder about, but the feet’s I have mounted. If you look at the pictures. I have spikes on the feets now, and Herbies Audio Lab spike/cones decoupling gliders betveen spikes and floor.
But I guess I will find out when all equipment is om place.
But i wondered if someone has tried feet’
Hassebasse75
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I guess outriggers are the right word.. anyone tried that?
I have no idea since I have never practically tried your loudspeaker feet.
Theoretically, however the points are outside the walls of ML. The weight of the speaker will be upon the metal plate and the connection to the ML frame. You will have to make sure that the plate is tightly connected to the frame of the loudspeaker and the plate does not bend with the weight of the loudspeaker. The metal plate or strip is in my opinion an unnecessary addition. Pointed feet on their own under the chassis of the loudspeaker would have done the job good enough. The feet you are using I think would be beneficial if along with the point they had loudspeaker vibration absorption feature too.
Theoretically, however the points are outside the walls of ML. The weight of the speaker will be upon the metal plate and the connection to the ML frame. You will have to make sure that the plate is tightly connected to the frame of the loudspeaker and the plate does not bend with the weight of the loudspeaker. The metal plate or strip is in my opinion an unnecessary addition. Pointed feet on their own under the chassis of the loudspeaker would have done the job good enough. The feet you are using I think would be beneficial if along with the point they had loudspeaker vibration absorption feature too.
My lastest thoughts on this subject is in two parts.
Part-1:
Sprung floor, that is to say a wood floor on joists, best to decouple with something that will dampen the energy and not turn the floor into a resonating diaphragm.
Part-2:
Solid floor, concrete ground slab, couple to it with spikes.
In the past I tried a "Part-3" hybrid solution that involved spikes on homemade Brightstar style sand boxes on sprung/platform floor (basement below). This compromise works, I encourage experimentation, no two rooms are the same.
Part-1:
Sprung floor, that is to say a wood floor on joists, best to decouple with something that will dampen the energy and not turn the floor into a resonating diaphragm.
Part-2:
Solid floor, concrete ground slab, couple to it with spikes.
In the past I tried a "Part-3" hybrid solution that involved spikes on homemade Brightstar style sand boxes on sprung/platform floor (basement below). This compromise works, I encourage experimentation, no two rooms are the same.
I purchased two sets (used) of Stillpoints Ultra ss for my CLXs. They work fine on carpet. Better than the ML spikes. Deeper soundstage a bit more up front. Another advantage is that it is easy to move the speakers making small adjustments (a never ending process).
Randy
Randy
JSCIVALLY
Member
I ordered 3/8 16 thread size for my X's from DV Oregon, haven't arrived yet
I'm getting ready to bring a new pair of ESL 15's online, and considering what I want to set them on. My room is in our lower level and as such is on a concrete slab, with berber carpet and a heavy carpet pad. With my existing Summits, I just left them on their feet as berber snags so easily, and I didn't want to deal with that as I occasionally, move them. With the ESL 15's, once I find their place, I doubt they will ever move again.
I've read thru the arguments for spikes, and I must admit, spikes sitting on a concrete floor 'seems' to make the most sense to me. One thing that kind of surprised me was I haven't seen any discussion about any of the IsoAcoustics feet. While the idea of 'isolating' my speakers from the floor seems counterintuitive, they have won multiple awards from some pretty big names over the past couple of years.
Have any of you tried these feet, or are they just viewed as more snake oil?
I've read thru the arguments for spikes, and I must admit, spikes sitting on a concrete floor 'seems' to make the most sense to me. One thing that kind of surprised me was I haven't seen any discussion about any of the IsoAcoustics feet. While the idea of 'isolating' my speakers from the floor seems counterintuitive, they have won multiple awards from some pretty big names over the past couple of years.
Have any of you tried these feet, or are they just viewed as more snake oil?
stereoman
Well-known member
I installed IsoAcoustics footers soon after I purchased the ELS 15A’s. On a hardwood floor they produced a better sound presentation than the stock footers. A few months ago a friend let me try out the Stillpoints Ultra 6 isolation feet. There was a pronounced improvement in the bass frequencies and imaging. Since they were previously owned, I was able to afford them. However, I would start with the Stillpoints Aperture panels, as they had the biggest impact.
Seems like isolation feet would be the answer for a hardwood floor (BTW, nice view). Any experience or thoughts about using isolation feet vs spikes on a carpet/concrete floor? My ESL's are now online but other than finding their sweet spot, I likely won't make any significant changes for at least six months so I'm really trying figure this out before spending un-necessary money. Thx in advance...
I think the danger in hearing a difference in isolation feet is after a while all your mind seems to grab on to is that difference.
Post #29 (not mine).
https://www.whatsbestforum.com/threads/symposium-acoustics.30333/page-2#post-638934
Post #29 (not mine).
https://www.whatsbestforum.com/threads/symposium-acoustics.30333/page-2#post-638934
bikerneil
Well-known member
I'm posting to this thread in hopes that someone with loads more experience might explain how both of these approaches could possibly be best. It sure seems like steel spikes (which would in theory prevent the plane of the electrostat from swaying) would produce the exact opposite effect of Isolation Feet (which would allow the plane to swing back and forth). How is it that both could be good solutions? I'm trying to understand the theory of how both work.....
I personally have ML Montis speakers. I have always used ML steel spikes on them but recently found that the spikes caused some annoying rattling noise at moderately high volume with low frequency, deep base music. I removed the spikes and the rattling went away. (My speakers are on carpet, on pad and then a concrete slab floor.)
I am considering trying IsoAcoustics GAIA III's, but would love to better understand the theory.
I personally have ML Montis speakers. I have always used ML steel spikes on them but recently found that the spikes caused some annoying rattling noise at moderately high volume with low frequency, deep base music. I removed the spikes and the rattling went away. (My speakers are on carpet, on pad and then a concrete slab floor.)
I am considering trying IsoAcoustics GAIA III's, but would love to better understand the theory.
