Is your hi-fi a weapon?

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rower30

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I had an interesting experience the other day at the local hi-fi shop. Two men were there, with one picking up some new leads. I idely chatted with the other and the discussion came to electrostatic verses dynamic driver speakers. One like them the other didn't. Fair enough. I mentionred I was a newer used of the CLX, and he mentioned that he used continuously upgraded Acoustats.

I offered that my C4's and CLX are sure different in how they couple energy intoa room and where the optimum listening position end up being, and that the CLX aren't good for near field listening. Near field listening being the point at which the "room" effects fall away and the speaker takes on another dimenison of perfection. "Oh I listen at 1.7" he responded. Thinking he still meant near-field I suggest my CLX would not sound good 1.7 meters from my speakers spaced eight feet apart. His response was, "I thought you said you had been at this a long time, 1.7 is the optimum ratio for listening (the old formula of your seating distance divided by the speaker's spacing)". My response was no, I don't use the formula, I listen to what sounds best in my room. At which his response was, "Go away from me" (I'm not worthy because I don't use the right formula).

What is more interesting, is that he said "his" data could be backed-up because it was someone else's! My feelings were not made at this point as bad hair day people SHOULD be left alone. He'll likely be more accepeting of his hobby on another day.

My feeling were that using pure data collected up from someone else isn't really "using" data at all, as far as sound quality goes. Blindly using a "formula" that can be proven through simple knowledge of the formula, is flat wrong. Using a formula, without listening, is a crutch supplied by others that prevent you from learning on your own. Learning is making your system fit your room, not using a formula.

To denigrate someone because they don't use "your" math is a dangerous way to enjoy this hobby. The classic seating position formula is not effective in real rooms that are not anochoic, or symmetrical in shape and acoustic decore. My room is L-shaped, for instance.

I prefer to seek methods that force you to LISTEN to your stereo. Formula's are great, but most things are already built and the last set-up tasks are (should be) driven by matching your system to your EARS, not a formula. Too many of us are afraid to listen, and gather vast amounts of data as though the exact size, weight, model number and transistor count of an amplifier makes it sound good. No, it sounds good, or not, when it is played, nothing more need be known. Adjust the tube bias till it sounds right, nothing more need be known. True, some settings are "here", period, but those are again set and FORGET. If it's set right do you always need to know what it is? That doesn't magically change the sound.

How to learn on your own? There are ways to learn on your own if you want to listen, and not compare formulas and obscure "theory" that is not YOUR room, phono cartridge ETC. When your VTA angle is set to where it "sounds" the best, do you really care that it is 90-93 degrees (heaven help me if that's the wrong "formula of ranges!)? Are you afraid to say it's at a value above or below that? Why? Do you need to know your stylus shape, the name of the man who invented it or the actula angles to set the VTA till it sound good? I would rather not know ANY of that but be able to independantly set-it to sound good.

For the set-up of my new CLX, I LEARNED what they do by using a room corrected set-up procedure we all can use. Formula's aren't needed at all.

-My room is 14 feet across and 39 feet long, so the side wall spacing to get a reasonably open sound has to be at least 27" from the closed end (the wall) of the "L" shaped room. I keep the speaker as far away from the rear wall as is livable, especially with di-pole designs, which is about five feet in my room. This set the CLX about 8 feet center to center apart (depends on where you measure from). You can go back and reset the CLX spacing to a few starting points and keep the best one.

- Here is the LISTENING part. I set the CLX (or any speaker) exactly parallel to each other, no toe-in and all at this point. Why? Becaus this makes a good central image HARD to achieve, and that is what I want. I want the central image to be terrible, and then become more solid at a specific location. The parallel speaker placement makes the easier to HEAR.

- Get in a chair with casters. and get right between the speakers, like they were headphones. SLOWLY move away from the speakers into the room until you all of a sudden get a strong vocal image (don't worry about the centering of the image just yet and don't peak, as you'll bias where this actually happens). Listen to the sound field to the left and right. Get both the image and soundstage to an asymptotic maximum. I usually go back intil the best spot is broken, and then creep up again ---don't peek!

- Mark THAT spot. In my experience, you don't want to go CLOSER than this to the speakers to get a good sound field. Now you can peak...I look at the room and see where I am at that point and if the location seem livable. And, I set the seating positon a few feet farther from the speaker than the "image seems stable" minimum distance to avoid an unstable sound field.

- Once you have that seating position determined, now you can do the toe-in. Here is where I like to make sure I don't design-in a head in a vice seat, and allow the speakers to intersect in a line from the left and right channel that intersects a few feet BEHIND my head. This form a wider sweet spot that doesn't disrupt the image if you simply slouch over a few inches in your chair. But, if you must, you can design-in a SMALL listening location, which can be the best of the best, if you can hold your head there for fourty-five minutes. Some, the CLX, will sound brighter with varying toe-in so it's a iterative process to balance the sound and image stability.

- Last is to get something that is MONO as you know, and establish the central image location. You room interaction will skew just about any system on way or the other from center. Almost all rooms have a soft side and a hard side, or in my case a speaker by a wall and one in the open. Adjust the balance for a MONO source till it is centered. If you need to go more than a few click (less than 3 dB or so based on your volume knob detents) you likely need room treatment on the aggressive side. To my ear, too much balance adjustment thins out the image resolution and richness. You CANNOT fight the room with too much balance adjust so indirectly CHANGE the room with treatments if necessary.

What this excercise showed, was that the CLX is NOT a good near field speaker as it is a design that losses energy and blending as you get too close, where the C4's could almost be headphones if you wanted them to be (restricted left to right sound field, though). Dynamic drivers get louder as you get near them, not softer, and couple energy to the sides of the room much sooner than the CLX, or a di-pole radiator. You don't need math to hear this.

This is just one example of how to listen to your stereo, and throw away the darn formulas. If they exist, you'll integrate them into your listening experience. If not, would you use them for a poorer listening experience in your unique room? Yes, I know a few formulas, but I seldom USE them. I would rather force my room and ears to arrive at the formula in my room through derivation of a process than to simply assume all the approximations are correct and simply plop down at a 1.7 ratio and proclaim, "all experts know this formula, so it's what I use".

When my ears are happy, I'm happy. No, I'm not the best man at the party to spout off all sorts of inane names and bias levels, tube numbers and such. THAT isn't a sound, it's a crutch to avoid actually listening. Those you denigrate for not using your "formula" or simply knowing names as though a name change improves the sound, are likely better listeners and probably have a system matched to their room in a more than satisfactory fashion without the need for a formula, or the name of the man who threw it out. I prefere to walk on my own if possible.

I'm still perpelxed how blind adherence to formulas translates into a proper listening experience. I will always look for "information" that allows me to " derive" the formula indirectly through my own ears. If I end up at a 1.7 raio for seating, so be it, if the VTA is actually 94 degrees, so be it. But, I know that that spot SOUNDS good, and isn't done to feel, "worthy" to someone who happens to know a number.

Truly creative people don’t use abstractions of procedure and formula defined by other people, but incorporate their own methods, which may ulimately agree with some abstractions, but often uncover territory that is seldom and some times never, considered by the crowd. View your stereo the same way, in the end it is how it SOUNDS, and not all the settings and names.
 
What a great story! I think I need to get "I listen at 1.7!" printed on a t-shirt :)

Anyway, just to give another example where the "normal" setup might not be the best, I tried an alternative setup, and it really works well.

Now, my room is a bit odd since it it an open space with semi-walls (see picture). SpeakerSetup.jpg

If you see, you will observe that apparently:
1) The speakers are way too far apart
2) They have way too much toe in. Their axis actually cross in front of me not behind me.

Even though this goes against "standard procedure" (and the 1.7 guy would probably have me keel-hauled...), here are the benefits in my particular room:

1)The room modes in the listening position and in the speaker position are not the same. This gives a great bass response. Very open, dry and fast.
2) A large part of the rear-wave from the panels is lost into the adjacent "rooms" separated by the semi-walls
3) If a person sits in one of the outer position of the sofa, he/she will listen more on-axis to the far-away speaker. Conventional setup has it the other way. This gives me a great virtual center-image in all three seats.
4) The right and left channel "blend" before the listening position. This gives a very realistic sound imaging.
5) The strong toe-in means that the hard wall behind the sofa and the glass windows behind the speakers are less of a problem. Standing waves can simply not occur since the reflections are going sideways quickly.

It only goes to show that there is more than one way to get to - and drink ;-) - Rome.
 
My speakers are set at 1.7. That just happened on accident and not on purpose.
You should have asked that guy what happens if you go above or below 1.7. To see if he knows what he is talking about.
I use as many rules and quantitative measurements as possible in my speaker setup, e.g. frequency sweeps and SPL meter.
When I see the peaks and nulls, I know right away where they are coming from and what to do about it.
There is no way I am going to get a good freq response by "listening" and "trial and error".

Your guide for setting toe is interesting and I should try it some day. I disagree about trying to center the image by balancing. In my case, I had an early reflection on one of my walls that pulled the image to one side. But if I fixed it by balance, what would happen is that a singer's voice would appear at one spot, but the "S" sound they made would appear at another.
 
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If you have the room that allows you to move your speakers and your listening seat, the best advise, IMHO, is to adjust both to eliminate, to the extent possible, any nulls and standing waves. Then fine tune from there.

Regarding Mr. 1.7, people should ignore the "absolutist" types in all areas of life, be it politics, religion, or audio and let them live in their minute, self centered world happily ever after.

GG
 
That was quite a long post just to say: "I met some arrogant ********* at the HiFi store the other day." :)
 
But he was BIG and I am SMALL..

...What a great story! I think I need to get "I listen at 1.7!" printed on a t-shirt :)...

But he was BIG and I am SMALL. I want to laugh, but not die. If he caught me with that T-shirt, I am as dead as an old Large Advent tweeter. You made me laugh, good enough for me! If you are bigger than 6'3" or so, get that T-shirt!

...It only goes to show that there is more than one way to get to - and drink ;-) - Rome...

Exactly, and the more we learn what others do, the more option we all have to try, and well more useful than a single formula. Why be so hateful about this?

...There is no way I am going to get a good freq response by "listening" and "trial and error"...

Maybe, maybe not. Truly flat sound is kind of bright. I'll stick with getting large bass peaks out at the spot that provides good voicing from the upper bass to the treble. Yes, the bass itself (low frequencies) are always a challenge to get flat with no room modes. But once "flat of peaks" in the bass, I KNOW that I listen with the bass LEVEL more than "flat, that's for sure.

...That was quite a long post just to say: "I met some arrogant ********* at the HiFi store the other day."...

LOL. I deserved that one!

...Your guide for setting toe is interesting and I should try it some day. I disagree about trying to center the image by balancing...

Remember, the CLX are a little weird in that the 30 degree curvelinear source isn't as eay to determine exactly where the energy is going per say. Yes, using the flashlight method might work depending on where you end up, but the actual best toe-in is still room-to-room room dependant. And, I agree with your disagreement on balance since balance adjust can be weird depending on what happens to the image. I reported that you will hear this, too. If it gets weird on you (like you report, too) by all means listen with a shifted image over a centered but bad sound, or experiment with room treatments. My L-shaped room is going to be NOT room treatment friendly, or easy, though. My balance is 1 dB shifted to the left (speaker that sit in the "open" L location) and doesn't kill the remarable image the CLX throw out. And yes, I've tried to move the right and left speakers to different toe-in angles to center the image, and it's always been weird sounding.

I'm an engineer and I'm good at only what I do, and nothing else above anyone else, really. But you know, I enjoy listening to unwind from my job more than turning my system into a math problem. I do the OPPOSITE of my work. The stuff is already made, so I LISTEN to it more than measure and analize it all as much as is sensible. Yes, I have EQ stuff, SPL meters, charts of my bass response and all that, and they drive me nuts.

Best,
rower30
 
Oh come on, make the shirt. What is the worst that happens. You get to see the look on his face. He punches you. You sue him and win, build an acoustically room with his money then send him pictures of your room not at 1.7 while enjoying your music. Just a thought.
 
Oh come on, make the shirt. What is the worst that happens. You get to see the look on his face. He punches you. You sue him and win, build an acoustically room with his money then send him pictures of your room not at 1.7 while enjoying your music. Just a thought.

What so funny, is that I messed around with the seating, and found somewhere around a 1:1 ratio works...and the funny offset image is nearly gone. This was the "nearest" spot I found with my moving chair method. But, you just can't get too close or the solid center image goes away...poof, like right now. So with the CLX about eight feet apart, I get a real good sound around nine to ten feet out. A SMALL toe-in (two inches in is it) throws the sound stage way wider than you would expect, too. But, this location puts me halfway between the couch along the left wall. OK, need to figure out where to put that couch! I need a super comfy chair with wheels.

As is, the farther seat makes the image good, but it is smaller. But, this is better than way too close. I envy those with square rooms of proper proportion and ONLY have a stereo in it!

So now the T-shirt should read, "I listen at 1.25!" THAT T-shirt will get me looking like Beetle Bailey after Sarge pounds him out.

Question, What listening distances do you CLX owners get to work with speakers at 8-9 feet apart? Remember, I have a terrible room (L-shaped) as it will always win. I was thinking of some sort of "wall" like device I can pull along the "open" side of the L. Thoughts?
 
My room size firmly restricts me to 1:1. No choice about it, unless I swivel all my stuff 90 degrees... there's an idea...
Would it not be easier to just swivel your head 90 degrees? ;)

Or, as the antenna technician said to the irate customer, "Lady, go rotate yourself!"
 
Would it not be easier to just swivel your head 90 degrees? ;)

Or, as the antenna technician said to the irate customer, "Lady, go rotate yourself!"

LOL!

So... I actually just completed the 90 degree swivel today! Everything sounds much as it should, but I still cannot quite attain that fabled 1.7; maybe closing in on 1.2 hahaha. Really though, my living room is now only useful for music, nothing else. The TV is leaning against the wall in the next room. It goes without saying (although I'll mention it anyhow) that my girlfriend is a real doll about the loss of one of the 3 rooms in the place :bowdown:

Here is a picture:current.jpg
 
Just for the hell of it I measured what I listen at. It's around 1.8, but only when I have my head in a vise!
 
Just for the hell of it I measured what I listen at. It's around 1.8, but only when I have my head in a vise!

Ok, just for fun I did the same. I am slightly under 1.6. I wouldn't mind being slightly further back, but it doesn't work in my room. And I don't expect I would notice a huge improvement in the sound if I was. People that live their life by static formulas while ignoring all the other potential variables, and then denigrate others for not thinking the same, are, after all, just losers. As soon as the guy in the original post said "I only listen at 1.7" with a smug look on his face, the OP should have just replied "oh, you're one of those" and turned and walked away.
 
Ok, just for fun I did the same. I am slightly under 1.6. I wouldn't mind being slightly further back, but it doesn't work in my room. And I don't expect I would notice a huge improvement in the sound if I was. People that live their life by static formulas while ignoring all the other potential variables, and then denigrate others for not thinking the same, are, after all, just losers. As soon as the guy in the original post said "I only listen at 1.7" with a smug look on his face, the OP should have just replied "oh, you're one of those" and turned and walked away.

Not to be, "one of those" I rearranged my room for sound only (it's kind of awkward looking). I moved the theater chairs up to the front of the room 2 feet back feet to the closest spot that had good center imaging (that 1.25 ratio I mentioned).

This does give the best resolution, as the room is least effecting the sound, and the sound stage is about the widest it will be. My guess for the wide soundstage is partly the first major sidewall reflection is just AFTER that spot. Moving farther away with the furniture makes the room "look" better but will impact resolution and imaging (reflections) but wasn't bad at the 15 foot position, but the image is indeed less expansive than closer in. Now I sit just far enough back that you don't pull your head back to keep the notes from seemingly bouncing off your chin. This is likely personal preference, some may like the tonsillectomy seating but it worked better with the C4's.

The CLX do have a critical "falloff" point where the center images and everything else just goes flat. My C4's just went into headphone mode 2 feet out from the speakers (a pleasing but different sound image) as they have so much lateral dispersion immediately in front of the speaker. But, this is also why they sound softer and exhibit poorer resolution as the room reflections soften everything up so much, and they are lower resolution to begin with.
 

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