fuses!

[tonyc]

OK, you are either a tweaker or you are not. I have spent way too much money on gizmos and gadgets that ultimately wind up in the junk drawer. But sometimes I get lucky and find a tweak that really works. Examples include shunyata power cords, isoacoustics Gaias, and their equipment footers, the Butcher Block Audio amp and turntable supports. I have now found another tweak that really makes a difference for the positive. Based on a more or less rave review in Stereo Times I ordered two yellow fuses for my arc ref 3 preamp and my arc ref 110 amp. Installed these suckers and within an hour I was slack jawed. And the more I listen the better my system sounds. The fuses cost 213 bucks apiece and are made by a company called quantum science audio. They replaced other aftermarket fuses namely a Hi fi tuning fuse in the pre and a Synergistic Research orange in the amp. What I am hearing is a dramatic lowering of the noise floor which lets unheard details emerge. In my system this is manifested by a DRAMATIC increase in intelligibility of vocal lyrics (Of course this is not always a good thing). The system sounds more powerful and free flowing. Not at all bright despite the increase in detail. This company offers fuses ranging in price from $28.50 to $2800 (yes your read that right). I ordered another yellow for my arc ref 7 phono stage and may go upstream for a violet for the amp ($711). I recently retubed both these pieces with trick aftermarket tubes at 3 and 4 times the cost of the fuses, but the fuses make a larger difference in the sound, by far. These are available at tweek geek and they offer a money back guarantee and a 90 day trade in if you want to go to a more expensive fuse. However, I'm warning you that your wife is going to slap you when she becomes able to make out the lyrics in all that rap music you are playing! Go ahead and do it, you know you want to...

 

[MOON]

I am switching to the new on the market Synergistic purple fuses from orange. I have used after market fuses for years. Should have the purples in the next week.

 

[ebustin]

I see in a post people are increasing the value of their fuses say 1.6 to 2 amp. My question is why?

 

[Robert D]

I see in a post people are increasing the value of their fuses say 1.6 to 2 amp. My question is why?

Sounds risky. I'd think you risk letting in too much current.

 

[GW1800]

I’ve used SR fuses fir a long time but just installed their newest master fuse and it is by far the best fuse I have tried.

 

[ebustin]

Would you like to sell the purple fuse. If so what is the size. amperage etc?

 

[GW1800]

Sold. Only have a 16A SB blue left

 

[Leporello]

OK, you are either a tweaker or you are not. I have spent way too much money on gizmos and gadgets that ultimately wind up in the junk drawer. But sometimes I get lucky and find a tweak that really works. Examples include shunyata power cords, isoacoustics Gaias, and their equipment footers, the Butcher Block Audio amp and turntable supports. I have now found another tweak that really makes a difference for the positive. Based on a more or less rave review in Stereo Times I ordered two yellow fuses for my arc ref 3 preamp and my arc ref 110 amp. Installed these suckers and within an hour I was slack jawed. And the more I listen the better my system sounds. The fuses cost 213 bucks apiece and are made by a company called quantum science audio. They replaced other aftermarket fuses namely a Hi fi tuning fuse in the pre and a Synergistic Research orange in the amp. What I am hearing is a dramatic lowering of the noise floor which lets unheard details emerge. In my system this is manifested by a DRAMATIC increase in intelligibility of vocal lyrics (Of course this is not always a good thing). The system sounds more powerful and free flowing. Not at all bright despite the increase in detail. This company offers fuses ranging in price from $28.50 to $2800 (yes your read that right). I ordered another yellow for my arc ref 7 phono stage and may go upstream for a violet for the amp ($711). I recently retubed both these pieces with trick aftermarket tubes at 3 and 4 times the cost of the fuses, but the fuses make a larger difference in the sound, by far. These are available at tweek geek and they offer a money back guarantee and a 90 day trade in if you want to go to a more expensive fuse. However, I'm warning you that your wife is going to slap you when she becomes able to make out the lyrics in all that rap music you are playing! Go ahead and do it, you know you want to...

$2800? You might hope your equipment blows to protect the fuse! You might want to bypass the fuse altogether, as a cheaper and equivalently risky way of making out those rap lyrics.

 

[Leporello]

Sounds risky. I'd think you risk letting in too much current.

No, over-fusing would not let in too much current--unless a fault situation caused too little current to blow the the 2 amp fuse but enough to blow the 1.6, an unlikely situation. Fuses are typically specified for 200% or more of the highest current ever expected during normal operation. Faults that cause a fuse to blow would typically draw more current than that. I have over-fused equipment to that extent, or even more, when I didn't have the original fuse on hand, and it has never gotten me into trouble. Fuses have essentially zero impact on how much current flows unless there is a fault condition that causes them to blow, when they stop the current flow.

More to the point, though, is why anyone would want to use a boutique fuse instead of a standard fuse. Sure, fuses introduce ohmic loss into the circuit. They have to, or they wouldn't blow. When the I^2R exceeds the power required to melt the link, it blows. But the ohmic loss is usually far less than other ohmic losses like the transformer windings, hysteresis losses in the transformer core, as well as non-ohmic losses like the rectifiers. If you want to do an experiment, unplug the equipment after it's been running, take off the cover, pop out the fuse, then feel how warm the fuse is and how warm the transformer is.

It's unclear to me what a boutique fuse is supposed to do. I am not convinced it would have any audible effect on the equipment using it. If you believe it does, go for it. But I'd far rather spend the time that I'm not listening to music tweaking the speaker positions, or swapping out pretty good amplifiers (but since hearing how the Parasound JC-1's make my CLS II's sing, I probably won't be doing that for a while either).

If a boutique fuse makes your equipment sound better then I guess no fuse at all would be better still. Then, of course, there is a very slight risk of burning out your equipment (in the half century that I have owned audio equipment I have never had a line fuse blow), an even smaller risk of burning down your house because of it, and some risk that if your house did burn down, a fire inspector would flag it and deny an insurance claim even if it weren't the cause.

 

[Robert D]

No, over-fusing would not let in too much current--unless a fault situation caused too little current to blow the the 2 amp fuse but enough to blow the 1.6, an unlikely situation. Fuses are typically specified for 200% or more of the highest current ever expected during normal operation. Faults that cause a fuse to blow would typically draw more current than that. I have over-fused equipment to that extent, or even more, when I didn't have the original fuse on hand, and it has never gotten me into trouble. Fuses have essentially zero impact on how much current flows unless there is a fault condition that causes them to blow, when they stop the current flow.

More to the point, though, is why anyone would want to use a boutique fuse instead of a standard fuse. Sure, fuses introduce ohmic loss into the circuit. They have to, or they wouldn't blow. When the I^2R exceeds the power required to melt the link, it blows. But the ohmic loss is usually far less than other ohmic losses like the transformer windings, hysteresis losses in the transformer core, as well as non-ohmic losses like the rectifiers. If you want to do an experiment, unplug the equipment after it's been running, take off the cover, pop out the fuse, then feel how warm the fuse is and how warm the transformer is.

It's unclear to me what a boutique fuse is supposed to do. I am not convinced it would have any audible effect on the equipment using it. If you believe it does, go for it. But I'd far rather spend the time that I'm not listening to music tweaking the speaker positions, or swapping out pretty good amplifiers (but since hearing how the Parasound JC-1's make my CLS II's sing, I probably won't be doing that for a while either).

If a boutique fuse makes your equipment sound better then I guess no fuse at all would be better still. Then, of course, there is a very slight risk of burning out your equipment (in the half century that I have owned audio equipment I have never had a line fuse blow), an even smaller risk of burning down your house because of it, and some risk that if your house did burn down, a fire inspector would flag it and deny an insurance claim even if it weren't the cause.

Ok. I had no idea that the fuses are rated at 200% over expected current. I figured just small amount of current difference could be fatal to the equipment.
So if a fuse is rated at 1.6 amp, the equipment could handle up to 3.2 amps before it would be anywhere near in trouble? Not sure if I've got that right.

 

[Robert D]

No, over-fusing would not let in too much current--unless a fault situation caused too little current to blow the the 2 amp fuse but enough to blow the 1.6, an unlikely situation. Fuses are typically specified for 200% or more of the highest current ever expected during normal operation. Faults that cause a fuse to blow would typically draw more current than that. I have over-fused equipment to that extent, or even more, when I didn't have the original fuse on hand, and it has never gotten me into trouble. Fuses have essentially zero impact on how much current flows unless there is a fault condition that causes them to blow, when they stop the current flow.

More to the point, though, is why anyone would want to use a boutique fuse instead of a standard fuse. Sure, fuses introduce ohmic loss into the circuit. They have to, or they wouldn't blow. When the I^2R exceeds the power required to melt the link, it blows. But the ohmic loss is usually far less than other ohmic losses like the transformer windings, hysteresis losses in the transformer core, as well as non-ohmic losses like the rectifiers. If you want to do an experiment, unplug the equipment after it's been running, take off the cover, pop out the fuse, then feel how warm the fuse is and how warm the transformer is.

It's unclear to me what a boutique fuse is supposed to do. I am not convinced it would have any audible effect on the equipment using it. If you believe it does, go for it. But I'd far rather spend the time that I'm not listening to music tweaking the speaker positions, or swapping out pretty good amplifiers (but since hearing how the Parasound JC-1's make my CLS II's sing, I probably won't be doing that for a while either).

If a boutique fuse makes your equipment sound better then I guess no fuse at all would be better still. Then, of course, there is a very slight risk of burning out your equipment (in the half century that I have owned audio equipment I have never had a line fuse blow), an even smaller risk of burning down your house because of it, and some risk that if your house did burn down, a fire inspector would flag it and deny an insurance claim even if it weren't the cause.

I once had a fuse blow on a Carver subwoofer, and blew one of the fuses in my Aragon amp. I can't recall any others. It is a rare event.

 

[Duke]

I’ve used SR fuses fir a long time but just installed their newest master fuse and it is by far the best fuse I have tried.

I never went beyond Hi Fi tuning fuses for everything except for the Trinnov. Have you compared that brand with yours?

 

[Leporello]

Ok. I had no idea that the fuses are rated at 200% over expected current. I figured just small amount of current difference could be fatal to the equipment.
So if a fuse is rated at 1.6 amp, the equipment could handle up to 3.2 amps before it would be anywhere near in trouble? Not sure if I've got that right.

Yes, that's right. If the current that would damage a piece of equipment were approximately 1.7 amps and you fused it for 1.6, there's a good chance the equipment would be damaged even with the fuse. Whereas if the maximum current you think the equipment would ever draw were approximately 1.5 amps and you fused it for 1.6, you might have a lot of blown fuses. Good engineering requires a good choice of margins.

The current that blows a fuse is a precisely known quantity, but not the normal operating currents of a piece of equipment, nor the maximum current it could take before being damaged. If something happens like an electrolytic capacitor shorting or a transistor turning into a wire nut, it's usually going to cause a lot more than normal current to flow. So you have latitude in choosing those margins.

 

[Leporello]

I once had a fuse blow on a Carver subwoofer, and blew one of the fuses in my Aragon amp. I can't recall any others. It is a rare event.

Yes, quite rare. Though, according to a thread here the ML 210 and 212 subs are unfused, which I found quite surprising. Things usually have at least hidden fuses, to get UL certification here in the US. The thing most likely to cause a fuse to blow other than random component failure is surges in the power line.

 

[Robert D]

Yes, quite rare. Though, according to a thread here the ML 210 and 212 subs are unfused, which I found quite surprising. Things usually have at least hidden fuses, to get UL certification here in the US. The thing most likely to cause a fuse to blow other than random component failure is surges in the power line.

That carver I had I was able to replace the fuse and get about another good 4 years out of it. After that it blew another fuse and I replaced that one, but the fuse would blow whenever I put another one in. I was able to send it off to Carver out west and they replaced all the guts in it to make it like new. It lasted me quite a long time.

 

[audioxcel]

OK, you are either a tweaker or you are not. I have spent way too much money on gizmos and gadgets that ultimately wind up in the junk drawer. But sometimes I get lucky and find a tweak that really works. Examples include shunyata power cords, isoacoustics Gaias, and their equipment footers, the Butcher Block Audio amp and turntable supports. I have now found another tweak that really makes a difference for the positive. Based on a more or less rave review in Stereo Times I ordered two yellow fuses for my arc ref 3 preamp and my arc ref 110 amp. Installed these suckers and within an hour I was slack jawed. And the more I listen the better my system sounds. The fuses cost 213 bucks apiece and are made by a company called quantum science audio. They replaced other aftermarket fuses namely a Hi fi tuning fuse in the pre and a Synergistic Research orange in the amp. What I am hearing is a dramatic lowering of the noise floor which lets unheard details emerge. In my system this is manifested by a DRAMATIC increase in intelligibility of vocal lyrics (Of course this is not always a good thing). The system sounds more powerful and free flowing. Not at all bright despite the increase in detail. This company offers fuses ranging in price from $28.50 to $2800 (yes your read that right). I ordered another yellow for my arc ref 7 phono stage and may go upstream for a violet for the amp ($711). I recently retubed both these pieces with trick aftermarket tubes at 3 and 4 times the cost of the fuses, but the fuses make a larger difference in the sound, by far. These are available at tweek geek and they offer a money back guarantee and a 90 day trade in if you want to go to a more expensive fuse. However, I'm warning you that your wife is going to slap you when she becomes able to make out the lyrics in all that rap music you are playing! Go ahead and do it, you know you want to...

I know it sounds improbable that a fuse might change the sound of a piece of audio gear but I can say it happens "sometimes". About 10 years ago I decided to try some of the affordable fuses out there at the time. I paid $69 each for two Audio Magic nano liquid fuses for my ARC Classic 60 amp. The AC line fuse made a noticeable difference in the "quietness" of the sound. There was just a better, more relaxing :feel" when I was listening to music. The low level screen fuse didn't seem to change anything noticeably either alone or in combination with the AC line fuse.

I then decided to buy one for my CAT preamp and one for my Philips CD880. Neither seemed to make a significant difference. Soooo, in one case there was a very noticeable improvement and in three others not so much if any difference. I also tried upgrading the AC line level fuse to the Audio Magic super fuse ($125 at the time) It was no better than the nano liquid base fuse.

 

[sgordon10]

Much has changed in ten years.

Treat yourself to a Fuse Box from verafiaudio, with a 30 day full return policy. Read the reviews on their website and threads from users on the audiogon forum!