Search results

My dad nagged me to get one of these Pyramid 3-way active xo's back in 1994, and I swapped out some resistors to get the xo frequencies I need. Quiet enough, uses RCA in/outs, and solid idiot-proof Taiwanese exnovation that's been floating around since the late 80's. Sold as Pyle and Pyramid and...

What are you finding out there? Where are you coming from? Are you looking at DSP or analog? Would you try this old school adjustable analog xo? (needs transformer)...

Yes, you must bypass the passive bass xo (cap and inductor) and connect the woofer directly to the second pair of speaker binding posts.

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/martin-logan-sequel-ii-dead-panels.245751/ Hope yours doesn't look as burned-up as these!

What does the amp's owner's manual say about the meaning of the red light? Does it really indicate 'shorted'? Someone's gonna have to open up that speaker...

Do the other amp channels act the same way with that ESL?

And it shows a red light on all 7 channels when you try the ESL alone? So the amp's fault-checker is over-cautious about the weird ESL load? Try adding a 1 Ohm power resistor inline or try using the wimpiest cables you have there.

Assuming the HV charge is not reaching the diaphragm in that area, you could try to squeeze or massage the edges together on the side where the wires attach (on Ascent it's on the R side), attempting to make better contact. Try while it's playing. Have dry hands... Actually, try first with them...

Thanks for the update! And it's been fine ever since you swapped just one cap? I expected other caps also to be suspect...

The low-hanging fruit comes from only changing the bass passive xo to active xo (plus an amp), so the woofer is driven directly. The factory passive xo for the ESL panel stays as-is, so yes, the new bass xo frequency has to match the panel's 180Hz xo point. So try a 12dB/oct slope for the bass...

Woofer later. Active crossover first.

Tweeter is one of these Swan RT2C: https://www.swanspeakers.com/product/view?id=598 (Woofer is also a Swan.) Tweeter also sold as Hi-Vi brand: https://www.parts-express.com/HiVi-RT2H-A-Planar-Isodynamic-Tweeter-297-407?quantity=1&srsltid=AfmBOooGkOzzwhGIR5RaGqwa1yXG7uIMdA2NHXRcBbBtDxiKIFwnDsJrunA

These SLS S8R?

Use an analog active xo on only the bass.

The OEM woofer is 'bad' because it has a passive xo in between the amp and the woofer. Go active xo, and that old woofer is unbottled to go and live its best life...

If you're hearing some faint sound from it, perhaps the mid-woofer is blown, and you're only hearing the tweeter? I think you have to pull the front grill off (with wire hooks?) to access anything.

Do other amps make your Aeon i pop? Isn't the new pop related to the new active bass change? (I agree it's unlikely for both to develop same problem at the same time.)

Have you ruled out the Musical Fidelity amp causing the popping? An amp with a bit of DC offset would make a pop at turn-on....

No, the panel fades out unless the wires pull loose. I had transformer T1 go bad once on my SL3, but other things which fail are the Triac and the op amp.

Two years ago I encouraged @DanR to upgrade his Odysseys to active xo bass, and he was very pleased. I hope @DanR chimes in!