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Yes it's sad, if only 'GW1800' has written: However I think that some audiophiles believe that a different power cord then the original is always better. instead of: However I think what is universal is a different power cord then the original is always better.

When differences are heard with power cords, it usually comes down to: 1] a problematic cord. 2] an uncontrolled variable such as: a] differences in control settings or levels. b] differences in the cord's length or placement. c] a nearby noise/interference source being turned on or...

Just the opposite is most likely to be true. Seldom is there a difference between reasonable cables in good condition. On the rare occasion that a true difference is heard, the cord is often not the cause of the problem. The cord's length or placement just changes the situation enough to change...

I read about the problems in engineering, pro-audio and Ham-radio. Audiophile pages are not that interested tech stuff.

So I went looking for more info on the Tesla PowerWall and found this: http://ka7oei.blogspot.com/2017/12/does-tesla-powerwall-2-produce-rfi.html So the answer is: at the frequencies we are concerned about, yes the Tesla does generate interference!

The one thing that I know about Tesla cars is: They no longer offer AM radios in their cars. Because of the large amount of interference generated by the system.

I have not heard a word (plus or minus) about the Tesla unit. But the question is why bother?

What are the problems? For starters: a] known interference generators. b] high source impedance. they can't keep up with rapidly changing current demands. which also means they can fight with amps that have a SMPS.

That's what I though your plan was. But whether it's AC for the CLXs or power amps or for anything else, just stay away from regen.

Maybe more power or maybe not, it depends. If the amp has a regulated DC supply then no. If the power is limited by the Safe Operating Area of the output devices then no.

I would stay far away from regeneration (and all it's associated problems) unless it's absolutely necessary.

The best solution for problematic loudspeakers is very short speaker cables. I put my amps right behind each speaker and use long interconnects.

Yes, cables like the Goertz MI 2 can be a problem for some legacy and boutique power amplifiers. But for any modern, well designed, accurate amplifier they won't be a problem. With any speaker cable what matters most is total end-to-end resistance with respect to the loudspeaker impedance...

As 'Jonathan' wrote, it's most likely a 'gain structure' problem. Bad or old capacitors are related to hum or lack of bass problems, not about hiss.

If it's only on FaceBook, then I'll never see it.

Is there a link to the 'Null Tester' ? I didn't see anything on his page.

Lots of experts don't think much of room EQ.

Do you have a DMM meter? If so measure the DC voltage on the audio output. Then with no interconnect cables, measure the AC voltage from it's chassis to the amp's chassis.

Any AC power discussion, should start at the main breaker panel. It's a series circuit, a little bit like a chain. Replacing a few links in a chain, doesn't make it any stronger. (and yes, I just over simplified things)

a] From Bill Whitlock. Twist the Hot & Neutral together, with the Safety Ground in close proximity. But this should be all the way back to the main breaker panel. b] The shorter the cord length from hi-fi component to component the better. So start from a centrally located, very large outlet...