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Ahh up to 900w per channal. But of course at normal operation not so much.

I am getting back to this as I would think the SPL vs Frequency response. My understanding, which might be wrong, is that when you use e.g. Dirac it will send a signal at a given level from the receiver and the mike will measure the SPL across the frequency, which will impacted by the difference...

All doubts vanished then 🙂 and great to hear you got the system of your dream and even for a good bargin.

I think it depends on the size of your room and how loud you your preferred listning level is. The sensitivity of the Theos is 90dB so quite fair. Recomended amp power 20 to 400w so in that respect it seems fine not least since it's class A - but rock concert SPL may not be there unless your...

Well better do the research 😀 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photophone&ved=2ahUKEwjSq-aevbeBAxWuRPEDHVlPCfcQFnoECBUQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0aZfhZ_QxB95AHFx8mzgE9 And i guess all fiberoptical cables are based on the same principkes...

I was carried away with the lightning mentioned - trust we're ahead with FO here. I was far from first mover when available 2008, but had my 1000/1000 connection since 2014. Sorry for you. Back to HDMI I have no optical cables but a toslink, so I have no experience (but also no hum)

Looks like there is a mechanical protection layer made of possible alu in this one. And there are surely many kinds around. Mine looks like this - surely no metal. The mechanical protection is plastic of some kind. It is about 50m to the box in the road. You can read more about the anatomy...

Fiber is non conductive, so not sensible to lightning in the vicinity. However if struck by lightning it will be destroyed, but not travel and affect connected gear.

I'd go for what receiver sounds best for the front and perhaps also center. Bi-amp - why would you do that? I did that some time back, but in reality, the big power is the bass so you do not create headroom, at least not worth talking about. Since you have subs (trust active) with a crossover at...

I was left with the understanding it was the panel, but I had same issue with the cinima i resently, and same verdict both to be changed - almost same cost as a new EM C så I ended with a c18 demo greatly reduced that the importer had in his place and had i auditioned in his place, left with it...

That sound exactly what happened to mine when less than 2y old. I got new panels fitted on both lS + new bias and all on the house since under warranty. Only issue was the 3 weeks it took.

You surely could profit from using night mode. If it's the dynamo in the app, otherwise i trust the amp.

I think you may rephrase "not capable" to not rated. Not capable it would shot down.

Even with all filters still dust - you can avoid it. But if you read ML's site, they give their advice on all this - worth reading I think :)

If you lean on ML's own pieces of advice you will have no issues. If the amp is not too old it will have circuitry that cuts it off before you damage the speakers. I myself am using bridged amp (only 8 Ohm rating for bridged mode) and have done so for +4 y without any issues. Mind you the panels...

Try running the room correction SW and look at the response curve. In my case it is where it should be and close to the Dirac suggested target. One thing to keep in mind is it's the bass taking the power not the high frequencies meaning power reserve should be more than enough for most...

I went through the same considerations and ended with the EM X over the ESL 9. My Cinema i needed repair at the cost of the EM C but got a good deal on the C18 which sounded like a true upgrade calling for an upgrade of my 20y old Aeon. Decision was looks/size and a sound improvement not...

Well that was one of four deciding factors for me ending getting the X. The others were design (at least to some extend), the price since my ears did not detect any significant difference (using a sub fo all below 60hz anywy), and finally something about stress on my bridged amp being 8 ohm.

You didn't by coincidence try to remove the box when listening to the Vistas? But I thing you made the right choice in getting the Ethos - Some years back these were the ones I were dreaming to get, but that shouldn't be.

Yah, i still can't remember the name but saw a diy youtube on it. Didn't get neither how it worked nor why any manufacturer would not build it in if it made the aclaimed improvements.