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Another vote for at least passively bi-amping. (to eventually be actively crossed-over in the bass) Those PM 860 amps are mosfet output stage, right? It's worth recapping and possibly dialing in some more class A. Put up some pics underhood for inspiration? Nelson Pass is my only transistor...

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-and-exotics/308039-ml-aerius-import-usa.html You must defeat the mains frequency sensing portion in your Ethos.

If you don't get answers here, try asking your questions on diyaudio.com in the 'planars and exotics' section: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-and-exotics/

You certainly have my sympathy! Random thoughts: Insurance claim? New panels are very expensive, but perhaps this guy in Germany can refurb? http://loudspeaker-repair-service.reromanus.net/Martin%20Logan.htm How did the solid get in there, and why can't it go out the way it came in?

Yes it could, esp if it's conductive...

If R is 2006, then W=2011

As you acknowledged, you blew out the caps in the single event of leaving the amp on while changing an interconnect. The lesson is: Switch OFF the amp when checking connections. All that other stuff about heat and cap checkup or whatever is just nonsense.

There was a pair of Aerius for sale recently in our area that had replacement panels made in 2007 which were the better Gen2 clear spar type, so hopefully that's what yours are too.

If they sound thin then maybe it's not the panels, but you need new woofers? Test your hearing. I'm sure they could use a good tightening of all the screws and conectors inside, and make sure to find a way to stop the panels from slipping down and hanging from the wires.

My immediate suspicion is that the long RCA cable is picking up some kind of airborne radio interference like a cell phone (in combination with the receiver disconnecting the sub output and thus leaving the RCA cable more susceptible to RF pickup). What happens if you leave the sub on, but...

As if the bass was sneaking out the back door, but having to take the long way...?

I added an upskirt photo of problem-preamp so those of us at home can follow along.

Ascenti could be thought of as an SL7 for its numerous improvements over SL3 (better panel, woofer, cabinet, xo). It's also easy to convert to an active xo setup on the bass, allowing it to keep up with the newer models.

Those older models are not actually glued together along the long sides, but only top and bottom using the double-sided foam spacers. Then the panels are held together with the pressure of the trim/mounting rails. The diaphragm tension is only in the top to bottom direction, so it does not need...

Ascent'i' is my favorite ML: glued clearspar Gen2 panel should way outlast the earlier double sided foam types; aluminum cone woofer is phenomenal; cabinet is thick-walled; straightforward to convert to active xo on the bass (and then no sub is needed). It is still possible for the panel to slip...

If you like the overall size and shape and trim color of the Odysseys, then grab them, and worry about that later.

Yes, those have clear spars (transparent). If they are fully functional, diaphragm is not wrinkled or damaged, and in good cosmetic condition, then $1700 is a good starting point in your negotiations. But two woofers AND the ESL, all in parallel, is a VERY difficult load for any amplifier. But...

If those Odysseys have the later clear spars, then it's definitely an upgrade all the way round: Larger panel = lower xo point; more woofers; sealed box. Almost perfect, except for the passive bass xo...

Pick a model with active xo for the bass. The impurities come from the series inductor in the passive low pass xo. Play the ESL panel on its own with its passive eq and xo, and you'll hear nothing wrong from there. Eliminate the passive bass xo, and upper bass/ lower mid muddiness problem is...

let's try again not working, can't make them normal sized... I give up.